Weekend News

Putao Wine uncorks hope for Taiwan viticulture

• Publication Date：03/24/2012
• Source： Taiwan Today
• By  Meg Chang

Although Taiwan is not a major contender in the global wine business, an ROC government-backed project is helping take the island’s viticulture to the next level. Putao Wine, at the forefront of this endeavor, has been a real surprise, earning the thumbs-up from a Michelin three-star restaurant.

For Chen Chien-hao, assistant professor at Kaohsiung University of Hospitality and Tourism and the architect behind Putao, the drink not only represents the culmination of his decades-long commitment to the art of winemaking, it also marks the beginning of a personal mission to create Taiwan’s own wine culture almost from scratch.

With an undergraduate degree in enology from the University of Burgundy and a master’s degree in wine sector management from Paris X University, Chen has been a referee for wine and liquor competitions in Belgium, France and Germany for the past 10 years. Given his expertise and impressive track record, Chen was commissioned by the Council of Agriculture in 2004 to help local wineries enhance their operations.

“With its humid, subtropical climate, Taiwan is not naturally suited for viticulture; nevertheless it began growing grapes when several species were introduced to the island during the Japanese colonial rule (1895-1945),” Chen said . Given their exceptional agricultural skills, Taiwanese farmers have been able to turn grapes into one of the nation’s signature agricultural products. The locally grown species suitable for wine production include Black Queen, Golden Muscat and Nagala.

According to Chen, Taiwan’s lack of winemaking skills is due largely to the state’s monopoly on liquor and tobacco, which was put in place during the colonial period. “In the past grape growers were encouraged to sell their crops to the government, and while some of them might have tried to make a little wine on the side, such behavior was strictly prohibited by law,” he said. “No serious effort was put into developing this skill, leading to the lack of a wine culture in Taiwan and a complete dependence on imports to meet increasing domestic demand.”

After the monopoly was abolished in 2002 as a condition for Taiwan’s accession to the World Trade Organization, some private establishments began making alcoholic beverages from grapes, plums and strawberries. “But most of these businesses made the drinks based on knowledge passed on by others without a set of appropriate procedures, leaving their offerings much to be desired,” Chen said.

After tasting a few such local drinks, Chen immediately realized what the problems were. “Enology is a highly professional discipline. Unfortunately, most Taiwanese operators did not follow a scientific approach when it came to winemaking, and their equipment was all wrong,” he said.

Because of its climate, Taiwan can never produce grapes of the same quality as those grown in France or Australia, Chen pointed out. “Since competition with regular imports is out of the question, the more feasible approach is to produce wine in small quantities with distinctive local characteristics.”

After extensive research and a careful comparison among various fermentation methods, Chen found thermal treatment to be the most promising solution. The inspiration for this comes from Madeira wine, a special beverage from the Portuguese island located in the Atlantic Ocean, some 980 kilometers southwest of Lisbon and 300 km west of Morocco.

According to the expert, the production process of Madeira wine is unique in that its fermentation is stopped by the addition of grape spirit. After fortification, the liquor is stored in barrels and exposed to a special thermal treatment in hothouses, a process that gradually heats the spirit over three months before the five-year maturation process.

“The hot and humid weather during summer makes Taiwan a natural heat room for such wine,” Chen said. Using Golden Muscat grapes, Chen began experimenting with the method in 2005 at the Shu Sheng Winery, a private facility in central Taiwan with the nation’s longest history of viticulture and wine production.

“The wine tends to develop more complex flavors as it ages, but before the maturation process is complete, you really don’t know what you will get,” Chen explained, recalling that the results were “awful” when he conducted a taste trial one year after he began. He persevered and when Putao Wine made its debut in 2010, it was an instant success, making the long wait and all his efforts worthwhile. The batch of 200 bottles was sold out in a matter of days.

The drink received extensive media coverage when it was chosen, under Chen’s recommendation, to be served with dessert at an exclusive dining event held later in the year at Pasadena Restaurant in Kaohsiung City. The banquet featured visiting chef Christian Le Squer from Pavillon Ledoyen, a Michelin three-star restaurant in Paris, with Chen as the sommelier.

Also the wine steward at four other similar fine dining occasions held in Taiwan, Chen said Putao Wine is the first and only local drink so far that has won the recognition of the world’s renowned culinary masters. “With its rich texture and caramel flavor, the drink was a perfect match for Le Squer’s signature dessert Croquant de pamplemousse cuit et cru,” Chen said, adding that the chef was delightfully satisfied with the pairing.

The second batch of Putao Wine should be ready this summer, with between 1,000 and 2,000 bottles available for sale by August. “Orders have been piling up, and this buildup of expectation augurs well for the business,” Chen said. “I only hope our supply will be enough to meet demand.”

Chen expects the offering to be different in both texture and flavor, because the harvest itself is different. “This is also the beauty of winemaking. Every new batch is a unique challenge, because you have to fine-tune your recipe to bring out the best in the crops you have.”

To cut production costs, Chen is also testing several innovative ideas, including a patented heating room powered by solar energy. He has published the results of these trials in the international Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture.

With the successful experience under his belt, Chen now has his eyes set on making champagne using a different method. He is also experimenting with other local ingredients like plum and honey under COA sponsorship. “Taiwan produces some of the best fruits in the world. These fruits are perfect for wine production, and selling them is also a good way for farmers to earn some extra income.”

Comparing winemaking to practicing medicine, Chen said he is like an intern trying to train in as many different specialties as possible, because there is still so much to learn in one of the world’s oldest professions. “Putao Wine is an important first step, and I am sure there is plenty of room for development with all the wonderful ingredients Taiwan has to offer.” (HZW)

Write to Meg Chang at meg.chang@mail.gio.gov.tw