Mount Ali, better known as Alishan, is one of the most beloved tourist attractions in all of Taiwan. Sadly, in August 2009 many parts of the mountain, including its roads and railways, were completely destroyed by Typhoon Morakot, one of the deadliest storms to strike the island in 50 years. With access to the mountain all but impossible, tourism came to a complete halt.
But since then, authorities have rebuilt the place, their work a testimony to the resilience of the human spirit. And even though reconstruction will not be completed until the end of 2011, things are already far better than they were before the storm.
The four train lines leading to the mountain, in particular, are being completely revamped. Two of the lines—the Chushan ‘Sun-Watching’ Line and the Divine Tree Line—are already up and running, while the other two—the Tashan Line and the Shuishan Line—should be ready for service by next December.
Whereas in the past the train lines served the purely utilitarian purpose of conveying tourists from Chiayi City to Chiayi County, in which Alishan is located, now the train rides are regarded as an opportunity to allow visitors to become better acquainted with the locale.
On the way up to Alishan, for instance, train drivers are expected not only to drive the trains, but also to serve as tour guides, introducing passengers to some of the more famous spots.
In addition, the Divine Tree Line has been deliberately slowed down to move at only 12 kilometers per hour, so that tourists can have a better view of the scenery, according to Yang Hung-chih, director of the Chiayi Forest District Office under the Forestry Bureau.
“We are working hard to create a quality traveling experience for tourists,” Yang added. “When fully completed, the entire railway system will allow tourists to engage more deeply with the mountain.”
Thus the Chushan line, which used to go straight to its final destination, now stops en route at Dueigaoyue, a spot known for its spectacular views. Passengers can get off the train to stretch their legs, admire the scenery and take a few pictures. Then the train meanders slowly through the tall pines, allowing tourists to observe the beautiful cherry blossoms along the way and immerse themselves in a heart-cleansing “forest bath.”
Park managers have also been working hard to tidy up the forest within 15 meters of either side of the track, to give passengers a less cluttered view of the scenery during their journey.
Not only have the train lines been improved. The old tourist spots have been spruced up, and eight new ones have been added, many of them with great historic significance, Yang said.
One of these sites is Tashan Peak, the highest of all mountains in the Alishan range. According to the Tsou Tribe, one of the 14 officially recognized aboriginal groups in Taiwan, their protecting divinity was born somewhere in the midst of Tashan’s loft heights.
Another such site is the Xiang Lin Arch Bridge. Built during the Japanese occupation period (1895-1945), it is similar in appearance to the classic architectural style of Kyoto, Japan.
Other spots involve the wonders of nature: the No.28 Giant Tree, which, with a circumference of 13.1 meters, is the largest red cypress in Taiwan and estimated to be 2,000 years old; the withered stump of the 3,000-year-old Sacred Tree; and the 360-degree Xiaoliyuanshan Observation Deck, which allows visitors facing east to gaze at Yushan, the tallest mountain on the island, and those facing west to look down at Tashan and the Chiayi-Tainan plains.
Asked what his main mission was, Yang explained: “We want to offer our visitors a complete travel experience, and hope they can learn something of the history of this site, especially its logging past.”
Before Morakot struck, he added, it was customary to look at things from a quantity point of view, to think “the more tourists, the better.” But now in retrospect he understands that “the large number of visitors actually affected the natural environment of the place and contributed very little to the local economy during their short stay.”
The emphasis is now on quality: “We would like to attract visitors who can afford to spend time and money exploring the beauty of the place.”
Meanwhile, to mark the centennial of logging activity at Alishan, the Chiayi Forest District Office is hosting a memorial design competition. According to Yang, the winning design will be built and put on display at Zhaoping Station, one of the main entry points into the mountain range.
“We hope the memorial will become another tourist attraction,” he added.
It is said every U.S. citizen must visit the Grand Canyon at least once in his or her lifetime, just as residents of mainland China are expected to visit the Great Wall. The equivalent for the people of Taiwan is visiting Alishan, getting up before dawn to walk through the misty forest, and then watching the sun rise majestically above the floating clouds.
Thanks to the improvements to the park, the experience will now be an even better and more unforgettable one.
Write to Elaine Hou at elainehou@mail.gio.gov.tw