The clothes are the work of fashion designer Jason Ku. He calls the male clothing designs Emotional Sculpture (2004) and the female ones Re-Sculpture (2005). Taken together, the complementary displays form the Breakthrough exhibition, currently on display at the Taipei Fine Arts Museum and running until April 11.
“I have called this exhibition ‘Breakthrough’ because I want to show how creative and unique garments can be, when they break away from the concepts of mass-production and popular fashion,” said the designer Johan Ku.
Ku, a 30-year-old rising talent, was born, raised and educated in Jingmei, a suburb of Taipei. With “Emotional Sculpture” as his first outreach to the global stage, Ku captured the top prize in the Avant Garde category of the Styles International Design Competition, held by leading U.S. arts organization Gen Art in New York City in December 2009.
The Taiwanese designer, having worked on developing sculpture-like garments for years, was praised by knitwear designer-judge Wenlan Chia. “She told me, ‘You are so talented. You should be proud of yourself!’” said Ku, beaming with a smile.
Ku’s persistent dedication to his signature “wearable sculptures” is based on his observation of the global fashion industry. “Followers can never stand out; only by sticking to one’s own style can one create trends.”
Like an artist that studies human anatomy to draw better, Ku delved into the world of threaded fabrics to discover the essence of garments. He experimented on all the materials he could think of, including stripped tire tubes, before finally settling down on wool tops after six months of trial and error.
Elementary school students marvel at Ku’s works.
“Wool tops are semi-processed products made from raw wool. Traditionally they are used to make yarn or felt, not garments,” Ku explained. “But it is through using wool tops that I can powerfully accentuate the fabrics, incorporate detailed crochets and finally come up with three-dimensional wearable sculptures.”
While a substantial number of Taiwanese designers look for inspiration from traditions, such as red flower patterns on grandma’s clothes or religious totems found in township temples, Ku claimed that his elaboration of “essence” is universal, something that all humans pursuing beauty and art can feel.
“I am Taiwanese and I love Taiwan, but since I grew up in the capital city, I personally cannot relate deeply to the traditional styles,” said Ku. “The very fact that I am a designer who grew up and was trained in Taiwan means that my work already has a Taiwanese identity.”
Ku went abroad to expand his horizons in September 2009. Already holding a Master’s degree in textile and clothing from Fu Jen Catholic University and running the Johan Ku Design Studio in Taiwan, Ku decided to go for another two-year program at the London-based Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in the United Kingdom on a full British Council grant.
At the London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2010, Ku interned as a fashion journalist and was able to talk to various designers, agents and models. He found out that all of them were confident in themselves, sure of what they do and taking pleasure in airing their views.
Inspired by the people he met during the fashion week, Ku said, “I have developed my own signature. I will keep it and make it heard by more!”
Pun Dai-lee, chairperson of the Taipei Fashion Designer Association and a key member of the New Talent Prize organizing committee of the Taiwan Textile Federation, thought it admirable that Ku had the courage to speak his own thoughts. “The creations by designers in Taiwan are great enough to compete with others from around the world, but due to a lack of publicity, these designers are not aware of how good they are. They have even lost the motivation to speak out for their own design works,” Pun said.
She encouraged young fashion designers like Ku to deepen their roots in places where they receive recognition. “Being awarded means that at least the audiences there appreciate your works. It’s easier to establish one’s business at such places.”
The artist now most aspires to establish his own commercial brand in the spring season next year and sell his garments in New York City, where he won the hearts of fashion experts.
But Ku is also open to all opportunities that may appear in life. Several brands, including a renowned international shoe company originating in Taiwan, have been in talks with him. “I look forward to seeing where life will lead me to,” said Ku. (HZW)
Write to Tienying Hsu at: tyhsu@mail.gio.gov.tw