2025/09/21

Taiwan Today

Taiwan Review

Sailing on a sea of mystery

June 01, 1982
Costumed children wait for the parade.
When Taiwan was first inhabited by early settlers from the mainland, the island's population was often ravaged by pesti­lence. The people turned to all kinds of deities to assure their protection. Among the deities are the widely known Wan Yieh (Lords). These Taoist gods have 800 or more temples through­out the island dedicated to their worship.

According to one story on their origins, the Wan Yieh were among 36 scholars massacred during the reign of Emperor Hsuantsung or the Tang Dynasty. Another account says that they were among 36 scholars who passed the examinations to become officials just before the Ming Dynasty was over­thrown. Rather than surrender to the Manchus, they committed suicide, and were later deified as a redress for the wrongs done to them.

A splendidly garbed participant waves a royal greeting (top); The boat - lovingly decorated - awaits a fiery fate (bottom).

Another report has it that the Wan Yieh were the five gods of pestilence. During the reign of Emperor Taitsung of the Tang Dynasty, the legend says, five scholars who failed to pass an official examination played music in the streets to eke out a hand-to-mouth existence. Eventually, they were appointed to the court of Emperor Taitsung.

One day, to test the magical powers of Taoist Master Chang Tien Shih, the Emperor invited the live scholars to play music in a cellar. Mistaking them for evil spirits, the Master killed them all. In remorse for the tragic error, the Emperor honored the scholars as immortals. The scholars, however, were not placated and spread pestilence wherever they went.

A later story gives an entirely opposite view. The story has it that the five scholars, on their way to the national capital, overheard the gods of pestilence in an adjoining room talking of their plans to poison the wells of the small town where they were staying. The scholars determined to sacrifice themselves in the wells in order to save the townsfolk. The next day, when the people found the bodies, they refused to drink the water and were spared. On hearing the story of the sacrifice, people began to honor the scholars as the immortalized Wan Yieh.

One of the most popular stories describes how Emperor Taitsu of the Ming Dynasty sent 36 scholars on a boat to publicize the benevolence and power of China. As they sailed in the Taiwan Straits, a typhoon capsized their vessel and all aboard were drowned.

After immortalizing the scholars, the Emperor ordered the construction of a huge boat to contain their memorial plaques. Thereafter, people worshipped at the boat, bringing offerings of fruit and wine wherever it moored. It was said that those who failed to revere the scholars would be killed by a pestilence.

Spectators on the beach in daily clothing watch the gorgeously clad members of the ceremonial party (top); They gather to watch a boat, that will never sail, forever depart this earth (center); The hungry flames rapidly gorge' on a ritual feast (bottom).

As the custom was a heavy burden on poor worshippers, it was changed to a ritual burning of the ship. Such a ritual is the central part of a festival held once every ten years at the town of Chiating in Taiwan.

Several days before the ceremony begins, worshippers and peddlers from all over the Island gather in the small town; Taiwanese opera and puppet shows are readied for the stage.

At about 3 a.m. on the ceremonial day, priests lead the way to the seashore. With a length of 20 meters, the gorgeous­ly painted boat replica is monumentally spectacular. The tablets of the 36 lords, and replicas of angling gear and daily utensils are piled high on the decks. It costs more than US$2,500 to set up such a vessel.

Mountains of paper money, contributed by worshippers, have been piled high at the beach. The boat is placed on top of the paper money mound. When the auspicious hour arrives, the boat is set on fire, implying that the lords have set sail.

Once ignited, the fire roars up the boat. In a second, the dancing flames are imprinted against the sky. Then the crim­son sky seems to hear testimony to the destruction or the crumbling, charcoaled boat. In the worshippers' minds, the boat is sailing to a sea of mystery.

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