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Worshippers burn joss sticks in honor of city god's natal day. The bamboo cangue (bottom) symbolizes obedience to the god and the boy's headband expresses the expectation that the deity will help him to grow up strong and healthy. Worship of city god does not exclude practice of other religions.
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Cheng Huangs are friendly, sympathetic, and very human gods. In fact they are men who ascended to the godhead, not deities who came down from heaven. They form a convenient bridge between mankind and higher gods who may be too busy or preoccupied to show concern for trivial everyday problems. Cheng Huangs screen appeals and pass along only the important ones to higher authority. They also report On the conduct of their parishioners and recommend rewards to be given by the Lord of Heaven and punishments by the King of Hell. Each city fad has at least 48 assistants. Among them are the tough General Fan Wu-chiu (left) and soft-hearted General Hsieh Pi-em (right). They escort the souls of the dead on their last journey.
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Processions are among the highlights of Cheng Huang birthdays. Image of the god and those of other deities are seated in sedan chairs and paraded through the streets. A trumpet signals the gods' approach and people offer food and drink. The God of Wealth is understandably one of most popular deities.
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Entertainment keeps things lively as the miles-long procession passes by. There are bands, acrobats, dancers, clowns, and stilt-walkers. The worshipper below has pierced his cheeks but feels no pain because of the magic spell cast by the god. Sword symbolizes the deity's right to protection.
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It takes people to make a god, as can be seen in the frolicking figures that delight children as surely in Taipei as New Orleans. Boy on sedan chair holds a scepter to show that his father is the presiding official at this festival. It is a sought-after honor.
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When the parade is over, the feasting begins, and if anyone goes away hungry, it's his own fault. Consumed at this festival were 265,000 pounds of pork, 17,200 chickens, 11,200 ducks, 11,900 pounds of fish, 289,200 bottles of wine and beer, and 572,400 bottles of soft drinks. The total cost of the festival was around US$1 million. Taiwan's prosperity and relative plenty permit such conspicuous consumption, Celebrations of these days are actually austere, compared with the past, because of government appeals to spend less.
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Automobiles must be banished from streets when the gods have their birthday parties. Even so, traffic jams are colossal for miles around. Guests may continue to come for days. In addition to the shrines dedicated to Cheng Huangs, Taiwan has more than 2,800 Taoist and 1,850 Buddhist temples. Freedom of worship is accorded Western as well as Asian faiths. Photo at bottom shows street after the festival.