Blue Note bar should not be confused with the U.S.-based Blue Note Records jazz label, nor with the chain of jazz bars located in New York, Milan and Tokyo. Tsai Hui-yang, who founded the bar in 1976, said he used the name simply because he liked Blue Note's records. While jazz may never have been mainstream, maintaining a jazz venue in the face of a changing musical and social environment had been difficult, Tsai admitted. "Although it's tiring, it's worthwhile," he added.
There was something of a jazz craze in Taiwan between 1964 and 1979, during the period when the U.S. Army was stationed, according to the 2006 Chinese-language book "Survey of Jazz in Taiwan." Since jazz was mainstream music for American soldiers, live performances were held in a number of clubs and hotels where they gathered. This not only promoted jazz but also gave musicians opportunities to perform.
When the U.S. Army withdrew from Taiwan in 1979, jazz seemed to leave along with the troops. Through the 1980s, jazz became marginalized as other genres became more popular. Clubs turned to playing disco or rock and roll, jazz musicians lost their jobs, and Taiwan's jazz scene seemed near the brink of extinction. Seeing this, Tsai said he became determined to build a place that gave jazz a stage to survive.
He opened Blue Note in 1976 on Roosevelt Road, near National Taiwan University and National Taiwan Normal University. The bar was a natural addition to the area, therefore, as it abounded with cultural spots catering to college students, such as independent bookstores and cafes.
Blue Note helped sustain the jazz community, Tsai claimed. Many jazz musicians from different generations played on its stage. Some people referred to him as "Father Tsai," out of respect for his contribution to Taiwan's jazz scene.
"It was very important for me to have the chance to play because jazz is a practical art," said Lin Wei-sheng, a Taiwanese jazz musician who performed at Blue Note when he was a college student. "The stage experience is irreplaceable. The only way to see how far you can go is through performing. Pressure from the audience is an impetus for you to make progress."
Lin compared Blue Note to the New York bar of the same name, where he has also performed. "Blue Note in Taipei is a more relaxing, more familiar place," he said, adding that the bar was "a sanctuary for Taiwan's musicians. Without it, there's not much space for local talent to perform."
After the government lifted martial law in 1987, the atmosphere in Taiwan became more liberal. People became affluent and many media outlets emerged. Against this background, jazz flourished again, according to the book.
Jazz in Taiwan reached a new peak. Radio hosts invited Tsai onto the air. Fans admired his huge CD collection, which took up an entire wall of his bar. Customers constantly asked him questions about jazz. Tsai said the most memorable experience for him was when nearly 80 workers from a computer company crowded into the small bar, eager to hear jazz music.
"But after 2003, our business slumped, as if the clock had been turned back to the 1980s," Tsai said. While fans in the past had come solely to hear the music, he felt the audience had changed in recent years. "The new generation is shallow," Tsai said. "They listen to music with their eyes, not their ears. They come here only for the live performance atmosphere, not for a deeper appreciation of jazz."
Brown Sugar perhaps caters more to this modern generation of jazz listeners. It has the feel of a lounge bar, which combines music with excellent interior design, cuisine and service. "We are not just selling music, but a multifaceted experience where different customers can find different things to enjoy," said Andy Chuang, owner of Brown Sugar.
The jazz bar keeps moving and getting larger. Brown Sugar was founded in 1995 in a 180-square-meter basement on Xinsheng South Road, the bar's Web site stated. In 1997 it moved to Jinshan South Road before settling down in its present location on Songren Road in 2003 where it occupied 661 square meters.
In addition to becoming larger, Brown Sugar was remodeled. When located on Jinshan South Road, it looked like a typical jazz bar. The new Brown Sugar followed the trend of after-hours clubs and remade the jazz bar into a lounge, according to the Web site.
Like an upper-class venue found anywhere else in the world, security personnel open the gate for visitors, bartenders prepare drinks nonstop and waiters in black suits lead guests to seats. A lawn in front of the entrance has a deck, which serves as a stage for outdoor live performances.
Transformation of Brown Sugar triggered mixed reactions from the public. "Brown Sugar is good in many respects: food, service and music," said Huang Ru-yu, a customer. "The show is entertaining. I forget my worries when the music starts up."
For Bill Thissen, veteran jazz show host at International Community Radio Taipei, Brown Sugar's renovation was troubling. "The new Brown Sugar for me now is more of a club for the rich guy," Thissen said. "You walk in and sit down to be seen."
Tsai echoed Thissen's statement by disdaining such commercial trappings. "They charge higher fees because they have grander settings and foreign musicians. But the true essence of the music is neglected," he claimed.
Chuang has heard such complaints before. He said there was little he could do to change the situation. Besides, the tastes of most customers had changed, Chuang said, so he had to meet their needs.
As a disc jockey, Chuang is used to listening to many types of music. He plays tunes from various genres in his bar, such as classical, jazz and funk. "I think we should be open-minded. Different music suits different moods," he said. "Imagine you're in a film. You need a variety of soundtracks."
Brown Sugar's soundtracks are mainly performed by visiting foreign artists. The roster of talent includes Grammy Award-winning jazz musician Hazel Payne from the United States. In the disco era, Hazel was the guitarist in a female-led band called "A Taste of Honey," according to Brown Sugar's Web site.
"We visited the New Orleans Jazz Festival each year from 1996 to 2001 when our store was located at Jinshan South Road," Chaung said. "Every year, the best artists gather in New Orleans over a two-week period, so we can find qualified singers and invite them to perform in Taiwan." Since Brown Sugar moved to Xinyi District in 2002, he said the bar looked for acts in Las Vegas.
Between the two bars, Blue Note and Brown Sugar provide environments suitable for different jazz fans' tastes. Visitors to Taipei have the choice of relaxing with college students in a casual bar or clinking glasses with the city's socialites.
--Copyright 2007 by Ginger Yang
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