The Thao's move took place during the Japanese colonial era (1895-1945) when the government decided to use the lake and nearby Jhuoshuei River for hydroelectric purposes. Although started in 1919, the project was not completed until 1934, and resulted in an increase in surface area from around 4.5 square kilometers to almost 8 square kilometers today. When full, the lake's depth reaches 27 meters.
While the "sun" and "moon" perfectly describe the daytime and evening aspects of the lake, the name is said to have actually been derived from the body of water's outline--which bisected by Lalu Island--appears to resemble a crescent moon to the south and a round sun or wheel shape to the north.
To best enjoy the lake's cool waters and magnificent vistas, participating in the Sun Moon Lake International Swimming Carnival is a must for locals and visitors alike. Usually held around the time of the Mid-Autumn Festival, this year, the swim is scheduled for Sunday, Aug. 31.
The event, which started in 1983, is jointly organized by the Nantou County Government and Taiwan's Chinese Taipei Swimming Association. The original intent was to encourage health and leisure activities among Taiwan's population, to help develop Sun Moon Lake as a tourist destination and, by inviting international participation, to promote community exchanges. Growing far beyond the founders' expectations in popularity, the Mandarin-language name was later changed to the "10,000 People Sun Moon Lake Traverse."
By 2002 its size had attracted the attention of the World Swimming Hall of Fame, and in 2006 the activity broke the 20,000 mark for the first time, with 21,942 swimmers participating. These included 203 foreigners from such countries and territories as the United States, Belgium, the Netherlands, Hong Kong, Japan and mainland China. This year, organizers have stated that participation will be limited to 22,000.
Naturally, safety is a major consideration, especially with so many people participating. The three-kilometer route is lined with buoys, beyond which swimmers may not go. There are platforms staffed by qualified lifeguards every few hundred meters, and other personnel paddle up and down in boats. Anyone abandoning the swim can climb onto a platform or simply call for a boat; others may use the platforms for resting or to soak up some sun.
Participants must equip themselves with an officially recognized lifesaving float or torpedo-shaped buoy, which, fastened to their ankle, follows behind as they swim. Although this might seem unnecessary for strong swimmers, it is compulsory and no one will be allowed into the water without one. Strict checks are made for this and to ensure that flippers are not used, as these may injure fellow swimmers.
Many less-capable swimmers or those not wishing to exert themselves too much put the long floats under their armpits and simply dog paddle across the lake. Some teams treat the "competition" as a social event, pushing or pulling floating picnic baskets and chatting as they go. Indeed, the organizers point out on the official Web site that, "this event is different from most swimming competitions, and swimmers are encouraged to proceed at a leisurely pace and to appreciate the scenery around the lake and the lake's pristine water quality as they swim."
From a personal perspective, the above is good advice. Having queued for more than two hours in the early hours of a Sunday morning before the event, I finally entered the water warmed up and raring to go, only to find myself thoroughly immersed in "people soup" and unable to show off my good swimming form. Having not visited the Web site and following its suggestion to appreciate the scenery, I got "lake rage" and charged around hooting my metaphorical horn, sprinting through any gap that opened before me, before reverting to breaststroke, or "frog style" in Mandarin.
Eventually, I did get with the beat and flipped over on my back, from where, indeed, the view of the surrounding mountains was idyllic. Back on my front, the water was magnificent, and, I had to admit, my fellow swimmers were a pleasant and friendly bunch, even offering me oolong tea from their bottles.
Another tip I can offer from my own experience is that if you do decide to participate in one of the world's great swims, make sure one of your group tucks some money in a plastic bag and into his or her swimming trunks, or finds some more secure way of getting it to the other side. For one thing, there are plenty of interesting things to eat in Itashao Village--also known by its old name, Dehua Community--the final point of the swim. Although drinks are handed to swimmers as soon as they exit the water--and free lunchboxes are available shortly after--restaurant owners and stallholders sell a wide selection of dishes. Secondly, even if one has plenty of energy to spare, walking back to the starting point at Chaowu Pier feels a lot further than the three kilometers they just came "as the carp swims". With money in pocket, one has a choice of the round-the-island bus or, more scenically, a ferry back across the water.
In terms of transportation, traveling by car offers much more flexibility for sightseeing before and after the swim--as the event takes place on a Sunday, making a weekend trip is a good choice--as long as there is still parking space available. A designated driver may need to drop swimmers off and then go some distance to park.
One final piece of advice--other than "go for it"--is that if finding a team to join is a problem, just mention that you wish to participate to other swimmers in your local pool, if you are in Taiwan already. It seems everyone at local swimming facilities is very friendly, and all seem to have participated in the Sun Moon Lake Swim or are planning to. Finding team members should be easy enough, as should borrowing a lifesaving float.
For more information on the Sun Moon Lake, and this year's international swimming carnival, please visit www.sunmoonlake.gov.tw.
--Adapted from the July/August 2007 issue of Travel in Taiwan.
Copyright 2007 Travel in Taiwan
Write to Taiwan Journal at tj@mail.gio.gov.tw