A government initiative is helping improve the international competitiveness of Taiwan’s fashion industry.
Talented Taiwan designer Justin Chou (周裕穎) hit the runway at New York Fashion Week (NYFW) in February to present his fall/winter 2020 collection. His new designs featured hard-edge geometric patterns by Taiwan painter Tsong Pu (莊普), combining vibrant colors with classic cuts for a contemporary take on timeless styles.
It was the sixth time Chou showcased his creations at the major fashion event, wowing audiences once again with his avant-garde pieces. “I strive to create fresh looks every season by utilizing Taiwan’s deep reservoir of creative talent, innovative materials and manufacturing prowess,” he said. “My design choices are guided by the concepts ‘old is new’ and ‘local is global.’” Having grown up in Taiwan and pursued professional training in Italy and the U.K., Chou melds Eastern and Western influences into his at-times discordant aesthetics. His collections are rich in symbolic elements reflecting the dichotomy between tradition and modernity.
Justin Chou, left, poses with two models at his NYFW show in February. (Photo courtesy of Justin Chou)
Since establishing a studio in Taipei City and founding his brand JUST IN XX in 2013, Chou has collaborated with numerous artists, businesses and organizations at home and abroad. While working on clothing lines unveiled at September 2017 and February 2018 NYFW, he drew inspiration from the work of Chinese-French artist Sanyu (常玉), as well as treasured historical artifacts, thanks to partnerships with Taipei-based National Museum of History and National Palace Museum. Last year Chou went on to team up with top international leisure brands U.S.-headquartered Nike Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co., giving used clothes new life through his trailblazing redesign, remake and reuse concept. He displayed the resulting sustainable collection at 2019 Taipei Fashion Week (TFW), hosted by the Ministry of Culture (MOC).
In the business world, Chou’s collaborative approach is referred to as “crossover,” a strategic partnership between enterprises that combines talent and resources from different industries to mutual benefit. A number of visionary brands are leading the trend, seeking powerful alliances to ramp up their competitive edge.
Government Support
To encourage more designers to embrace Chou’s innovation-by-partnership mindset, the MOC launched its Fashion Industry Crossover Project (FICP) in 2018. The initiative provides subsidies to help Taiwan designers establish cooperative exchanges, participate in marketing events such as fashion shows and trade fairs, and develop their brands abroad.
Among Chou’s collection are clothing and eyewear inspired by Taipei City-based National Palace Museum’s treasured artifact Jadeite Cabbage With Insects. (Photos courtesy of Justin Chou and National Palace Museum)
“Taiwan designers and fashion brands have a tough time competing internationally because they largely operate on a small scale with limited production capacity,” said Annie Chen (陳悅宜), director of the Department of Cultural and Creative Development under the MOC. “We want to create a supportive ecosystem allowing them to thrive and go global.”
According to Chen, the aim is to foster supply chain integration by encouraging designers to work more closely with textile producers upstream and accessories manufacturers downstream while creating a fusion of art, culture and technology. “Crossovers allow fashion designers to uncover inexhaustible sources of inspiration. It’s the idea that one plus one is greater than two,” Chen said. “Consumers enjoy the novelty of items combining the essence of two brands, which explains why crossover products are so appealing.”
FICP also provides funding for designers to showcase their work at high-profile fashion events such as TFW, which the MOC initiated in 2018 in cooperation with the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Taipei City Government. Aimed at creating a platform to increase exposure for local designers, TFW comprises themed runway shows by notable designers and new talents, networking events, competitions, exhibitions and workshops.
Established Taiwan designer Gioia Pan is passionate about crossovers and sustainability. (Photo by Chen Mei-ling)
“Fashion shows are great opportunities to promote new clothing lines to potential buyers from around the world,” said Chou, who has received subsidies to participate in TFW and NYFW. “I’m grateful for government support, especially since the positive feedback I get from audiences drives me to acquire new skills and push boundaries.”
Looking ahead, Chou intends to focus on sustainable fashion. He believes Taiwan is the perfect place to do so, as its textile industry is equipped with cutting-edge recycling know-how that can turn discarded items such as polyethylene terephthalate bottles into fabrics. He hopes to cooperate with manufacturers to develop eco-friendly pieces.
Sustainable Efforts
Another homegrown designer passionate about crossovers and sustainability is Gioia Pan (潘怡良). Last year, she incorporated New Taipei City-based Singtex Industrial Co.’s S.Cafe fabrics made from waste coffee grounds into her haute couture collection showcased at 2019 TFW. The upcycled textiles are advertised as surpassing ordinary materials in their cool touch, odor control, quick drying and ultraviolet protection properties. “Sustainability is an increasingly prominent concern in the fashion industry. Our role as designers is to make sustainable fashion accessible so more people will buy it,” Pan said.
Models display Pan’s designs at 2019 China Fashion Week in Beijing. (Photo courtesy of Gioia Pan)
The GIOIA PAN label and Pan’s Taipei studio were established in 2001. She has since participated in major fashion events around the world and won multiple awards including the Golden Top Award at 2014 China Fashion Week in Beijing. Dubbed the “Knitting Queen,” she is dedicated to reinventing traditional knitting techniques with a contemporary vision.
“It’s important for fashion designers to build their own style and set up their own labels,” she said. “I like to use knitted fabrics because of their elasticity, flexibility and smoothness—but also to give a bit of a granny chic vibe to my creations.”
Over the years, Pan has teamed up with numerous multinational companies, including U.S.-based Universal Studios and Walt Disney Co. on crossover collections with Fast & Furious and Star Wars themes, respectively. She has also worked on pieces for Taiwan opera and glove puppet shows. “I don’t put limits on what I can do. I’m always searching for breakthroughs and new opportunities,” Pan said.
Pan’s creations include pieces for Taiwan opera and glove puppet performances. (Photos courtesy of Gioia Pan)
Partnerships with industry leaders in fields ranging from automobiles, cosmetics and entertainment to information technology, jewelry and wine have bolstered Pan’s brand visibility and enabled her to reach a broader customer base, she said, adding she is glad to see FICP helping generate momentum for cross-sector collaborations. Like Chou, Pan expressed gratitude to the MOC for subsidizing her participation in 2018 TFW and 2019 China Fashion Week. “In the past, we were on our own in international markets,” she said. “Government support for the fashion industry gives a huge boost to the overall competitive strength of the country’s designers.”
By promoting crossovers and providing funding to innovators, the MOC has unleashed a previously untapped power in Taiwan’s fashion industry, playing a critical role in bolstering its development. “We expect fashion designers to capitalize on the country’s advanced textiles, dynamic business landscape and rich cultural tapestry to enhance their clothing lines,” Chen said. “It’s our belief that collaboration can take the country’s fashion to the next level and create more crossover success stories.”
Write to Kelly Her at kher@mofa.gov.tw