Shenkeng Township could have easily remained just another small town on the periphery of Taipei City, but it has recently become a mecca for tofu lovers and curiosity seekers from across the island and around the region due to the unique kind of bean curd its residents sell.
At first glance Shenkeng Township, located south of Taipei City and east of the suburb of Mucha, seems indistinguishable from many other small communities in Taipei County. The streets have little to recommend them with the exception of one particular roadway that dates back 200 years. Though two old trees standing on one end of Shenkeng Street have served as landmarks for many years, they are not particularly imposing, and the Chingmei Creek that flows through the town fails to add much charm. One thing has saved Shenkeng Township from oblivion, however--the growing popularity of the unique type of tofu produced here.
Few people would have imagined that this little town of 50,000 people, previously dependent on mining and tea plantations, could become a major tourist destination due to the variety of tofu snacks it offers. According to local historian Lin Wang, a majority of Shenkeng residents are descendents of immigrants from Anxi County in Fujian Province, and it was a member of the Chen family from this region who first made the unique tofu specific to the area during the nineteenth century.
Chou Po-hsien, the manager of a local restaurant, notes that the Chen family used more soybean and less gypsum (calcium sulfate or calcium salt, a white substance used to coagulate the soybean milk). The recipe resulted in a tofu residue that stubbornly remained on the bottom of cooking pots, creating a uniquely smoky flavor. This tofu has a more yellowish tint compared with the paler and more common variety. Today, only descendents of the Chen family produce this special type of tofu, but Shenkeng residents have helped establish the town's reputation by selling a variety of prepared tofu dishes. The trade is so lucrative that a family in neighboring Shihting Township has begun producing their version of this delicacy to capitalize on its popularity.
Pinpointing the exact moment when tofu made its debut in the Chinese diet is difficult. The most widely held legend is that of Liu An, grandson of Liu Pang, the first emperor of the Western Han dynasty (206 B.C.-A.D. 8). One day Liu An's mother fell ill and was confined to bed. Although his mother was fond of soybeans, Liu An believed that they caused indigestion, so he ground the beans into powder, then added water and salt to feed to his mother. Unexpectedly, the mixture began to solidify. Liu An's curiosity was piqued and he began to experiment with different ingredients. Eventually, he discovered that gypsum could change soybean milk into bean curd, which could in turn be used in creating delicious dishes.
The story of how Shenkeng came to be associated with tofu began forty-four years ago when a family, surnamed Wang, began selling the unique-tasting tofu the Chen family produced. The Wangs upgraded their stall to a larger premises in the mid-1980s as the popularity of their dishes spread. Other restaurants and eateries in the area, seeing an excellent business opportunity, also began serving the local delicacy. "Not everyone considers Shenkeng tofu to be delectable, but its unique taste has gradually drawn the attention of curiosity seekers," Lin Wang says. Newly constructed roads that connect the town to other communities also helped lure the tourists, as did the opening of the Taipei Zoo in 1987 in neighboring Mucha. Today, eateries featuring various tofu-related dishes dot the 230-meter-long old street, where one can also find other traditional Taiwanese snacks such as glutinous rice cakes.
"You can find tofu just about everywhere in Taiwan, but in Shenkeng you have a wider selection of dishes--steamed, roasted, stewed, and fried," says Lin Chin-ming, a tourist from Taipei County, explaining why he found the old street so impressive. Tofu is popular because it is inexpensive and considered healthful for being high in protein and low in cholesterol. "Shenkeng tofu is especially good for people suffering from gallstones because it contains less gypsum, which is high in calcium," Chou Po-hsien notes.
Another reason why Shenkeng tofu has gained such a glowing reputation in recent years is the government's efforts to promote local culture. The media have gone to great lengths to cover local color in communities across Taiwan, and they are eager to highlight distinctive characteristics of an area. "I've spoken with many reporters," says Chen Li-hua, a Shenkeng Street vendor. "I've even been interviewed by people from Hong Kong and Japan." Chen began selling roasted tofu kebabs two years ago on the old street, and the popularity of her product has sparked many copycats. "The secret to my success is in the sauce [that coats the kebabs], and I'm not about to reveal what goes in it," she says with a coy smile. "Others might try to copy it, but my sauce is different from theirs."
The enormous potential business opportunities prompted Chu Jung-liang to open an eatery three years ago. His patrons include not only Taiwan tourists but also many from abroad, especially Hong Kong. He notes that at least one travel itinerary for Hong Kong tourists features a visit to the old streets in northern Taiwan, including those in Sanhsia and Tamsui. Shenkeng Street has become a "must-see" sight on the circuit. "Business is generally encouraging. But in times of bad weather, business obviously slows down even on holidays," he adds.
Chou Po-hsien concedes that much credit for Shenkeng's booming tourism should go to the media. When the Taipei County Government held the Shenkeng Tofu Festival on November 3 last year, the small town became the focus of media coverage. With a budget of NT$4.5 million (US$130,000) for this event, the government hoped to shape a favorable image of Shenkeng as part of its efforts to publicize the unique features of places in Taipei County. Between 30,000 to 40,000 visitors swarmed to the small township during the festival, according to the Taipei County Government. One of the more intriguing events was the creation of a two-meter by two-meter tofu block, an unofficial world's record, as well as the display of inventive dishes featuring tofu. Recipes for these dishes were printed in brochures and distributed two weeks later at a food fair held by the local government.
Now that crowds mill the streets of Shenkeng on weekends and holidays, buying up the available tofu, local officials are hoping that visitors will take the time and effort to seek out other interesting attractions such as the Yung An Old House, the town's only officially designated historical site. The eighty-seven-year-old residence was built by the Huang family, Shenkeng's richest residents at the time. It is still inhabited by descendents of the original owners and represents some of the finest architecture of the period. A short visit to old Shenkeng Street may satisfy those following the herd mentality, a common phenomenon that periodically occurs in Taiwan. For example, several years ago, hundreds queued for hours to buy Portuguese egg tarts and the lines were equally long for the Japanese Hello Kitty doll, another craze that caused a frenzy among consumers. If people look beyond the local delicacy, however, they may be able to learn some history of the area and come away with a more meaningful experience, notes Lu Yu-huan, Shenkeng Township chief.
"I hope the tofu festival will draw government attention to the town. If we can attract a large number of visitors, we can request a bigger budget for development from the central government," Lu says. She advocates extending the Mass Rapid Transit system from Mucha to Shenkeng to provide greater convenience and accessibility to tourists. Lu is also planning to build a tofu museum to chronicle the town's history, and to attract more visitors.
A more pressing matter is the fate of the old street. In 1989 the Taipei County Government launched a plan calling for the demolition of the street's buildings to widen the road. Since then, the government has completed the process of acquiring the land from private owners. But with the recent increase in tourism, the plan has come under criticism. "The old street wasn't previously this busy, so it was never an issue," Chu Jung-liang notes. "But now the residents are concerned that if the street is widened, the old atmosphere will be lost and the business opportunities along with it. People seem to enjoy the narrow street--it's crowded and bustling with activity, and they can shop along both sides of the street at the same time."
Township leader Lu Yu-huan also argues for keeping the street unchanged. "This kind of street is rarely seen today in Taiwan," she says. "And the livelihood of many residents depends on it." In light of the increasing emphasis in Taiwan on cultural "nativism" and under pressure from local businesses, reversing the previous decision seems like a distinct possibility. In fact, the Taipei County Government has decided to reassess the situation and consider options for preserving the street. If it were to be wiped out, Shenkeng could wind up as featureless as many other townships. As it is now, tofu leaps to mind when people talk about Shenkeng, and no one, it seems, can separate the town from the street and the local delicacy.