Jinguashih mines its heritage.
In 1890, a group of railway construction workers were washing their rice bowls in the Keelung River when they spotted the telltale signs of the promise of riches. The tailings sparkling at the bottom of the river bed soon had men panning for gold which led to a bustling mining industry.
Among the several districts that the river flowed through, Jinguashih, located in Taipei County's Rueifang Township, turned out to be a major source of not only gold but also copper and silver. Along with the gradual rise of the mining industry, the mountain village grew from the scatter of a few households that subsisted on farming to a densely populated mining town.
More than 2 million tons of precious metals were extracted from the extensive tunnels that covered a combined length of some 600 kilometers from the 1900s to the 1970s. Its extraordinary output, naturally, took its toll on the miners' health. Many of them contracted pneumoconiosis, or black lung, as it is more commonly known.
The Japanese government that ruled Taiwan between 1895 and 1945 gained the most from the town's economic boom. At the time, Taiwanese society was clearly divided into upper Japanese and lower Taiwanese classes.
It was not until the Japanese left in 1945 that the mining rights were transferred to the ROC government. After further decades of large-scale operations, the area's mining resources finally dried up, and the mines were closed in 1987. Once a boomtown, Jinguashih eventually went bust and was left with the abandoned shafts and architectural skeletons of its mineral past.
Many young people have relocated because of scarce job opportunities. But most of their parents and grandparents have chosen to stay because they are accustomed to their lives and consider Jinguashih home.
"It's really a tough task. Oftentimes, we had to work inside the tunnels at 40-plus degrees [Celsius] from 8 a.m. to late afternoon. There was no break, except a brief lunchtime," recalls the 82-year-old retired miner You Hsiang-huei, who mined for 40 years. "Nevertheless, we were paid well. I earned NT$80 a month. At that time, NT$1 could buy seven kilograms of pork. Monthly living expenses for my wife and I were only about NT$10. Life was, by and large, stable."
Retiree Lai Shu-kuo recalls that, "Jobs were everywhere, providing you weren't afraid of hardship. At the mining site, as many as 7,000 workers were required. People from across the island came here for work. Our households used electric light while those in Taipei were still using oil lamps. At the time, our living standard was top-notch."
You and Lai hope the town's history will be preserved and would like to see its past affluence restored. A new ecological park is addressing some of their concerns. The Taipei County Government, with the cooperation of Taiwan Sugar Corp. and Taiwan Power Co., has established the park on the mining site hoping to turn the sleepy hamlet into a popular tourist destination.
"We're here to promote our heritage, transform old buildings and encourage the community to participate," says Chiang Min-chin, curator of the Gold Ecological Park. "Hopefully, through our operation, visitors won't only learn about the mining history and settlement culture, but also enjoy the area's unique geological sights."
Chiang says the Gold Ecological Park is the first ecological museum to be built in Taiwan. Such museums incorporate the features of traditional ones--housing collections, conducting research and mounting exhibitions--while making use of the surrounding cultural, historical and natural resources. Among the attractions at the park are a museum, meandering pathways that follow the old mining railway, walks through mine shafts and the chance to pan for gold.
Kuo Chung-twun, representative of the Laboratory for Environment & Form (LEF), is in charge of the ecological park's overall landscape design.
What's unique about the area, Kuo says, is that during the early days of the Japanese administration, the town developed into a thriving company town that provided dormitories for its employees, grocery stores, a hospital, a police station and many other amenities.
"In principle, what we try to do is to reconstruct the prosperity of Jinguashih during its prime," she says. "We've done our best to restore the original features of the buildings." Kuo says the park administration strives for authenticity by using building materials available at the time. Many of the structures serve the same purpose now as they did decades ago. The police station, the post office and the company restaurant retain much of their rustic charm.
"Our task is to highlight the characteristics of Jinguashih, its historical significance, peculiar geology and diverse ecology," she says. "It's hoped that the park can become a living ecological and industrial museum that enlightens visitors about Taiwan's mining history and natural beauty."
Chang Chi-yi, an architect and assistant professor at National Chiao Tung University, says the museum differs from most because rather than being housed in a single gallery edifice, it is composed of a cluster of small Japanese-era buildings. He has to make good use of the limited exhibition space, while creating a full experience for visitors.
"Since most structures in the park are old, their appearance cannot be changed," he says. "My emphasis is on creating an irreplaceable feel that showcases gold's value and the momentum around its extraction, rather than seeking to display its many features."
Chang thinks traditional museums that place a single emphasis on history, science or art will, in the near future, see such distinctions become increasingly blurred. The Museum of Gold was retrofitted from the old Taiwan Metal Mining Company building. On the first floor, there is a corridor of both old and aerial photographs of the area that show the physical changes that have occurred over time.
There are also exhibits of mining documents and implements, as well as dioramas.
At the same time, Chang's design, with its golden-lit walls, glass floors, apparently floating display cabinets and connected tunnels, creates a simulacrum of mining culture.
Visitors can also touch the Guinness Record-breaking 220-kilogram gold brick, try their luck at panning for gold or join a guided tour to learn about mining techniques and gold refining methods. There is also a gift shop, where gold-themed merchandise is sold.
Chang says commerce is a must if the park is to succeed. "The park has created plenty of business and job opportunities," he says, "both of which will benefit residents, the community and the park itself."
The Environmental Education Center is one of the many renovated buildings. Under Chang's planning, the first floor corridor showcases Jinguashih's ecological and geological features through photographs, documents, real-life models and multimedia displays. And the second floor, which commands a beautiful view, is designed to be an open space for lectures and educational activities.
The other highlight of the park is the Benshan Fifth Tunnel Experience. While being guided through the tunnel, visitors can gain an understanding of the working conditions in the mines.
In addition, the Crown Prince Chalet, built to welcome the Japanese crown prince in 1922, is the finest example of the Japanese villa among all existing buildings in Taiwan. The chalet has a beautiful garden, an archery field in the backyard and a mini-golf course.
Climbing the stairs to the side of the chalet, visitors can see the ruins of a Japanese Zen temple and enjoy the spectacular views of the surrounding grassy hills and the azure sea.
The 48-year-old Huang Kuang-hsiung is a frequent visitor to Jinguashih. "When I come here, I recall the mining scenes I saw when I was a kid," he says. "It's good that they have kept some of the Japanese buildings intact." Jinguashih is a picturesque village that offers an escape from city life. "The scenery here makes this a great place to get away," says Huang.
Visitor Chen Hsiao-ling, a high-school teacher, is happy to see several remodeled structures put to good use. "A few years ago when I came here, I was so saddened by what I saw--many buildings were dilapidated, and the whole site appeared desolate. It's a real pity since there are few such places in Taiwan," she says. "Thanks to the park, some of the buildings have been given a second lease on life."
Chen says the park also serves as a good educational tool for students interested in biology, geology or history, which is why she intends to schedule a number of field trips there in the coming school year.
Chang Ying-chieh, general director of Rueifang Township's Tourism Promotion Association, decided to set up the association in 1995. He runs the organization with his father, who was a village chief for nearly 30 years. After witnessing the demolition of several Japanese houses and the ongoing practice of scrapping mining equipment, the two began to push for conservation.
"I grew up here and will never leave," the 47-year-old Chang says. "Jinguashih has the potential to transform itself into a world-class recreational resort. I'm saying that, not because it's my hometown, but because it has so many resources." He says in the 19th century, Taiwan was described as "Treasure Island," due to Jinguashih's considerable gold output.
The town's heritage has not gone unnoticed by the Cabinet-level Council for Cultural Affairs, which has listed the town as one of Taiwan's 11 most notable sites. The council has been promoting the site as a candidate for the world-heritage sites, compiled by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization.
Chang believes that Jinguashih must reinvent itself to sustain its development, and the way to go is to attract tourists. Chang visited Australia, Japan and South Africa, where similar mining towns have successfully adapted to such changes. He says it is important for local civic groups and opinion leaders, including retired miners, to participate in the decision-making process about the park's development, which is central to the town's prosperity.
Chang says the park administration only focuses on its own operations. He hopes park officials will also contribute to the town's renewal plan. For example, Chang says, they could invite experts and scholars to set uniform standards for house and street renovations so residents have a set of guidelines.
Over the past several years, a number of mining companies from Australia and South Africa have expressed interest in conducting preliminary tests to find out if any ore remains. But Chang does not approve. He says the high production and environmental costs far outweigh any possible benefit. "Besides, it'll cause heavy metal pollution. Why don't we just leave the gold in the hills--in our country--forever, if there's any left?" he asks.