Taiwan Today

Despite changing times, traditional night markets remain a fun evening out and a popular way for tourists to dine like a local.

Attractions like the , 101, National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall (formerly the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall) and have motivated tourists the world over to visit . Still, 's single biggest draw--surprising or not--is night markets.

Indeed, night markets topped the list of tourist spots for foreign visitors from 2003 to an annual survey conducted by 's Tourism Bureau. Survey results show of all inbound visitors, 41 percent visited a night market, compared with 27 percent for the , 25 percent for 101, and 21 percent for the National Taiwan Democracy Memorial Hall. 's Shilin Night Market was at the top of the list with 34 percent of international tourists paying a visit, followed by 's Liuho Night Market (4 percent).

What do 's night markets have that makes them a "must see" not only for local residents, but also international visitors?

Primarily, the island's night markets are clusters of small stalls and street vendors selling a variety of local delicacies ranging from finger foods, drinks and sweets to sit-down meals. Many of them have been operating for decades and boast of maintaining their original traditional recipes.

During peak hours when night markets are in full swing, customers must jostle for position in front of the popular stalls or perhaps share a table with strangers if they want a sit-down meal. Vendors are deliberate in their presentation, with meat, seafood and vegetables on open display to tempt hungry passersby.

Along with food and drink, a wide variety of goods is on offer in most night markets. Everything from accessories, clothing, shoes and toys to CDs, antiques and handicrafts can be found. Most are available at relatively low prices or perhaps even bargain prices for those willing to haggle.

Sellers use different means to grab the attention of potential customers, including bright lights, loud music or over-the-top decorations around storefronts and stands. Some stand on chairs and shout their sales pitch through a megaphone. Many place their carts closely together or spread their wares out on the ground, forcing customers to squeeze past their stalls while ensuring enough time to take a good look at everything for sale.

Adding to the carnival-like atmosphere, fortunetellers are often on hand, along with shops offering mini-massages, sideshow games and street performers ready to transform a shopping trip into a night of entertainment.

Like a Local

"People visit night markets to eat, shop or simply stroll around to enjoy the exciting atmosphere, or, some might say 'chaos,'" says Yu Shuenn-der, associate research fellow at Academia Sinica. "Their great popularity is one sign of their importance as a cultural, economic and social institution."

Though the position of the night market is being pushed toward the social periphery due to their "disorder," Yu continues, their symbolic meaning as a cultural institution seems to increase over time.

"A growing number of night markets are being singled out as important symbols of 's remaining folk culture," he says. "They've become a typical site--along with temples, local museums and older neighborhoods--for Taiwanese people to give their foreign guests an 'authentic' experience of local culture."

As to their economic role, night markets have been tied with the domestic manufacturing industry, particularly between the 1970s and 1990s, in that products sold there were usually made locally. At that time, they were the major sales channels for 's small and medium-sized businesses.

Today, the markets serve as an important buffer between the formal and informal economies and offer work opportunities for people that cannot find regular employment. But the sundry merchandise often found in night markets is now largely made in , or since has lost its edge in producing low-cost goods.

"The change of merchandise in domestic night markets with regard to place of origin epitomizes 's industrial transformation and shows the impact of globalization," Yu says. "Now, one can get to know what the international fashion trends currently are in other parts of ."

Taiwanese businesspeople, Yu says, are quick to pick up on new trends, and night market vendors not only offer fashionable goods quickly for the local market, but also sell modified designs made "bolder," even to the point of exaggeration. For instance, night market sellers might stock an imitation of a hot selling skirt design from while making it shorter with a bigger ribbon and in a greater number of colors.

International Influence

Likewise, such international influences are noticeable in the food served. In addition to Taiwanese snacks, Chinese dumplings, American-style steak, Vietnamese spring rolls, and Japanese teppanyaki and rice cakes have become common items in 's night markets. Often, though, some of the ingredients, sauces and cooking methods are adjusted to cater to local tastes.

Take steak, for example. It used to be considered expensive and something "exotic" and was sold only in high-end Western restaurants. In the mid-1970s, however, a few vendors started selling cheap steak at night markets, which soon started a craze for the dish across the island.

Similar to western restaurants, the local version is served with additional courses like soup, bread and a drink. What differs is the addition of pasta and vegetables all served together with the meat on a hot cast-iron platter, with a raw egg dropped on the sizzling plate to cook at the very last moment.

Chuang Su-yueh, 50, has been selling steak meals at the Shilin Night Market for 30 years and says proudly that she is among the leading vendors there. "Initially, when I set up the business, I just thought that I wanted to offer something different, and then steak came to mind," she says. "I've made a few adjustments to the flavor, cooking methods and pricing. Now, business is good."

Chuang says her steaks, served in one-ounce (28-gram) slices, are as good as those found at regular steak houses. However, they cost a mere NT$150-$250 (US$5-$8), making them affordable to young people, including students, her main clientele.

Meanwhile, in recent years, Chuang has received an increasing number of foreign patrons. Consumption by foreign tourists now constitutes one third of her business, she says. "My chef can speak Japanese. As for me, I know I should learn a foreign language, but I think I'm too old for that," she says with a shy smile. "Nevertheless, those tourists are all nice. We communicate with each other through hand signals and body language."

Similarly, Dai Li-yu, now in her 40s, has also been running a stall at the Shilin market for some 30 years. The main snacks she offers are oyster omelets and wok-fried squid served in a thick soup.

"The recipes for preparing these dishes were passed down to me from my grandpa. I think it's this kind of traditional taste that attracts customers and keeps us in business," the third-generation market vendor says. "For more variety, however, I've diversified our offerings to include rice meals and different types of noodles. And for omelets, customers can pick shrimp or squid if they don't like oysters."

Dai also says she has seen more foreign tourists visiting her stall, particularly those from and . She has even had guided tour groups stop by and has produced Japanese and English versions of her menu to cope with the new demand.

Famous Delicacies

Lin Tien-lai, chairman of the Self-Governance Organization for the Shilin Night Market, says the delicacies that his market is famous for are oyster omelets, sausages wrapped in rice, super-size chicken cutlets, steaks, fried Japanese fish cakes and "Little Roll Wrapped in a Big Roll"--a small bun with a sweet or savory filling, which is deep fried, crushed and then wrapped in a soft outer layer. The market also boasts a wide variety of fresh juice and bubble milk tea.

Lin explains that the Shilin market basically runs around-the-clock seven days a week, as it operates as a fresh produce market selling fresh meats, seafood, fruit and vegetables from .m. until noon and then switches to cooked food and snacks from 2 p.m. to 1:.m.

Currently for the night market, nearly 540 stalls are in operation. The number of daily visitors is estimated at 30,000 during weekdays and rises to 50,000 during weekends and holidays. Fleets of tourist buses can oftentimes be seen in the area.

Lin attributes the market's popularity to the wide variety of foods, merchandise and entertainment available at very affordable prices and with quick service. Also, the city's 1997 launch of the mass rapid transit (MRT) line serving Shilin has provided convenient transportation and helped increase visitor numbers.

"One can enjoy so many different snacks and leave with a full stomach for perhaps NT$200 (US$6.50). Plus, the foods are served quickly as most of the vendors are very experienced," he says. "And if you want to find something fashionable to wear or unusual items, just come to our market."

Lin adds the current structure that houses the food stalls will be replaced with a new facility, currently under construction, slated for completion by 2010. It will be equipped with improved ventilation, sanitation and lighting, together with parking facilities, to offer a pleasanter environment for visitors to sample the foods on offer.

Similarly, another popular outlet, the Liuho Night Market, located in in southern , has worked to improve its surroundings in terms of sanitation, market order and visitor safety.

In 1987, the Kaohsiung City Government designated a "market activity area" of some 380 meters (approximately one city block) as a pedestrian zone between 6 p.m. and .m., banning the entry of cars and motorcycles during the period. Market stalls are set up daily along the sides of the road.

Upgrades

The city government has also been working with the Management Committee for the Liuho Night Market since 2003 to initiate a series of reforms, including the installation of lighting, signage, and recycling and water treatment systems, as well as resurfacing the road. They also promote wearing uniforms and caps among vendors and provide related education about food handling and sanitation.

Infrastructure projects like toilets, parking lots and a tourist information center have been launched as well.

Chan Chin-han, a consultant to the market's management committee, says thanks to the central location and close vicinity to the Kaohsiung Train Station (a 10-minute walk), the market has enjoyed brisk business. He expects the opening of the city's MRT lines to create more business opportunities for the market.

"We used to serve local residents primarily. But our recent surveys show that people from out of town have accounted for 70 percent of our customer base," he says. "The ongoing improvement of Kaohsiung's scenic spots, including the Love River, Chijin Fish Port and Lotus Lake, has helped lure more tourists to our city and thus to our market. Also, we have organized many activities like food festivals, street performances and marketing campaigns to boost numbers."

Currently, 196 stands are in operation, with around half of them providing food. Among the well-known delicacies on offer are seafood congee, papaya milk and sparerib soup with Chinese medicine. Moreover, one can even enjoy a few international dishes including Turkish ice cream and Mexican tortilla chips at Liuho.

Chuang Chi-chang, 55, has been selling seafood congee at the market for 34 years. The congee he serves includes five types of seafood--oysters, clams, crabs, shrimp and squid--and is priced at NT$90 (US$3). He receives about 2,000 customers a day and has a staff of 10 assistants.

"Given that is a port city, I can get a fresh catch any time and offer delicious dishes to keep customers coming back. Some are even willing to eat standing up when no tables are available," he says. "At the same time, the city's growing tourism industry and the launch of the high-speed railway have been good for business as well."

Zheng Po-tzu, 74, has been selling fresh juice at the market since he was 30. His most popular sales item is papaya milk, priced at NT$50 (US$1.60). Along with the myriad piles of well washed fruits on display, his stand is decorated with photos and autographs of many celebrities.

"Freshness, good flavor and cleanliness are my main rules in doing business," he says. "If your stuff is good enough, customers are willing to pay and line up. Plus, I treat customers as friends."

Zheng says after 44 years of experience in the business, he can tell whether fruit is fresh and juicy just by looking at it. He also knows which varieties have the best flavor and can calculate their sugar content, and he doesn't skimp on ingredients.

"I use brown sugar, instead of cheaper white sugar, and boil it for hours. And I never use milk left overnight. This, together with the fresh fruit, is what has made my business successful. By running this stand, I've managed to raise my four children, and now they all have good jobs as civil servants," he says with a contented smile.

Lutfi Kuyucu from , who has a Taiwanese wife, started selling ice cream in the Liuho market six years ago. He is a fun-loving guy, often dancing along to the Turkish music playing at his stand.

Authentic Flavor

"I'm from K. Maras where the most famous culinary specialty is ice cream. I know how to make it, so I started this business with the intention of sharing its good taste with others," he says. "To retain its authentic flavor, I import sahlep, made of orchids, together with cooking utensils from my hometown."

Turkish ice cream is typically offered in three flavors--goat's milk, chocolate and lemon. Nevertheless, after assessing the local market, Kuyucu eventually branched out to offer five flavors--cow's milk, chocolate, passion fruit, strawberry and taro.

Indeed, the availability of tasty delicacies originating from different places either in or from other countries constitutes much of the appeal of local night markets. At the same time, many of them have been rebuilt and become better organized and cleaner.

A good example is the Huasi Street Night Market, located near in . The market, renovated in 1987, features 188 booths that are brightly lit and line both sides of the roofed, 352-meter-long walkway. The entrance is marked with a brightly colored, traditional Chinese-style monumental arch. It was 's first night market designated to cater to foreign tourists.

"Braised pork rice, rice pudding, crispy chicken, steamed pork buns, stinky tofu, sushi, Taiwanese meatballs, oyster vermicelli ... you name it, we have it," says Yu Po-sung, chairman of the Huasi Street Shopping Circle Association. "Meanwhile, more than 90 percent of our chefs are licensed and regularly take courses related to food handling. All this, together with a clean dining environment, is why we often have the honor of receiving foreign dignitaries."

In the early days, Huasi Street, also known as "Snake Alley," was a red-light district and famous for selling snake dishes including snake wine, which is reputed to have aphrodisiac properties. In recent years, due to the abolition of prostitution as well as the enactment of wildlife conservation laws, such "local features" have diminished, however. Today, only a handful of snake shops remain and the snakes sold are mostly from farms and cannot be butchered in public.

"The stereotype that many foreigners have of 's night markets is that they are dirty, chaotic and smelly," Huasi market's Yu says. "We've been endeavoring to improve on that by creating a nice setting. Hopefully, our market can become a popular cultural tourism site showcasing 's distinctive dining culture or simply a place to relax for those interested in a fun night out."

Write to Kelly Her at kelly@mail.gio.gov.tw