Taiwan Today

At the Tungkang wharf, a busload of tourists and several dark-skinned, strong young men, sitting on long, wooden benches, wait for the departure of the boat for Hsiaoliuchiu, an offshore island.

The "Flying Horse" has actually been at the wharf for some time. At 8:21, tourists and island residents flock onto the boat. Some quickly enter the main cabin, and some stay on deck to view the sea.

Golden dots dance on the surface of the sea as the scorching sun of southern Taiwan casts down its burning light. The "Flying Horse" now rushes forward at full speed. When the water has turned from green to dark blue and then back to green, the boat has traveled almost 40 minutes. The voices of the villagers of Hsiaoliuchiu can now be heard. Fishing boat motors add to the noises as "Flying Horse" nears the wharf. The tourists step down from the boat, one by one, and are immediately accosted by street vendors of dried sea foods, taxicabs, and hotel promoters. Right after the arrival of the boat, the island's early morning market begins.

In the past two years, two big events have affected this tiny island. One was the completion of the submarine cable under the Taiwan Straits in June of 1980. Since then, residents of the island have enjoyed a 24-hour supply of electricity, and refrigerators, electric rice cookers, and television sets have become basic to the householders on the island. The second event was the successful submer­gence of fresh water pipes from Taiwan under the sea. When the island people now turn on their faucets, fresh running water flows endlessly. They do not need to depend on summer rains for house­ hold supplies anymore.

The solution of their two major prob­lems has brought a brighter future within range of the island people. Furthermore, the improvement of transportation facili­ties has reduced the burden of the eight­ mile distance from Taiwan; it now takes only 40 minutes to complete the trip.

In 1755, Lee Yueh-lao made an in­spection tour to the island from Kaohsiung, in southern Taiwan. He discov­ered that the island had a rich fishery and that the land there was suitable for grow­ing crops. He brought his family and neighbors to the island and settled down. They named the island, shaped like a ball floating on the Taiwan Straits, Liuchiu.

Now known as Hsiaoliuchiu, it is the only habitable coral island near Taiwan. Given a land area of merely 7 square miles, lacking in underground water, farmers have to depend on rains to irri­gate limited rice paddies. For the past two hundred years, residents of the island have exchanged seafood for the other daily food necessities from Taiwan.

Fishing careers were dangerous in the island's past, because equipment was simple and crude. Sailing out for fish could be like a mission of no return. As a result, residents married young and attached much more importance to boys than girls.

Before the all-day supply of fresh water from Taiwan, the island people had to live in the low-lying areas in order to obtain what water there was. They dug wells to obtain water for cooking and clothes washing. There was no extra water for irrigation, and farmable land was deserted and infested with weed. In the summer, when the shortage of water could become more serious, they would transport water from Tungkang, south­ern Taiwan. Most of the villages still center around the low-lying areas as a result of this heritage.

Because of the newly abundant water supply, green cultivated plants are every­ where. But farmers still dare not grow much rice, which requires a superabun­dance of water. Most farmers grow pumpkins, heading mustard, eggplants, celery, green onions and maize. But due to their past experiences, people still wash their clothes in water fetched from the wells, conserving the running water for irrigation, baths and cooking.

An inadequate supply of electricity was the other major problem for the resi­dents. Formerly, electricity was provided only two hours a day. Therefore, some residents moved to Taiwan or to Green Island, off the southern Taiwan coast, to leek more modern lives. The current population is almost the same as that of four years ago, 150,000. Now, thanks to the completion of the submarine cable and water pipes in 1980 and 1981, these island residents can enjoy some of the benefits of modern civilization.

Because of the more ample supply of electricity and water, residents are now more satisfied with their living environment. They have started to build new houses on the island, and the pace of emigration has slowed.

Eight villages on the island share four primary schools and one junior high school, as well as scenic settings. Acacias, silk trees and wild pineapple bushes thrive everywhere. Although natural gas is supplied as a fuel, the frugal residents prefer to use the trees, which offer an ample supply of fire wood.

Temples are a special feature of Hsiaoliuchiu. A total of 38 of them, old and new, are scattered about the island. The deities of the temples advise on mar­riages, births, funerals, the launching of new boats, ground-breaking for building projects and other important occasions via the casting of oracle blocks. The islanders' strong faith in their gods stems partly from the isolation of the island. Al­though the distance to Tungkang on Taiwan is only eight miles, in former days, when transportation equipment was simple and crude, it could seem like crossing an ocean. When people were sick, or when they had to make important decisions with no one to guide them, they naturally consigned their problems to the gods.

In addition, their fishing activities were dangerous. The fishermen’s fear of the capricious sea was reflected in their resort to spiritual assistance from their deities.

Of all the temples, the old Piyun Temple, dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy, is the most popular. People of Hsiaoliuchiu have been protected by the Goddess of Mercy since birth. Therefore, from the 19th day of the Second Moon every year, residents celebrate the birth­day of the Goddess for a period of 40 days. The birthday of the Goddess of Mercy is even more important to the islanders than the Lunar New Year.

About 90 percent of the population is engaged in the fishing industry. The island counts more than 500 deep-sea and inshore fishing boats. Paishawei fishing harbor, the only one on the island, however, has a capacity of only 30 boats. Most of the time, the rest of the boats anchor at sea. During the typhoon season, these excess boats have to go to Tungkang or Kaohsiung to seek shelter.

Construction work for a new harbor is underway at Tafu Village. The breakwater will be 36 meters long and the embankment will run for 140 meters. Its completion will undoubtedly be good news for boat owners.

Tourism is also a major industry on Hsiaoliuchiu. An around-the-island tour can be completed in one day. There are several ways to tour the island. Perhaps the most convenient and time-saving is, simply, to take a taxi. Buses and trucks with canvas coverings offer even more economic means. But the most satisfying tour of the island is by foot.

There are three main highways on Hsiaoliuchiu, all starting from the wharf and the Cave of Black Ghosts at Penfu Village. Two of the roads follow the coast around the island. The third passes through the central, low-lying areas.

Flower Vase Rock is the most distinctive landmark on Hsiaoliuchiu; it has been accepted as the guardian deity of the island. The rock is nine meters tall and rises from Paishawei Harbor at northern Penfu Village. Viewed from a distance, it has the appearance of a gray vase superimposed on blue sea waters.

Behind Flower Vase Rock is the re­splendent Lingshan Temple, built facing the sea. The dark green glazed tiles spar­kle in the sun. An unforgettable experi­ence is a distant view of the boats from the temple - dedicated to Goddess Chen Ching-ku - setting out to sea. Temple "palaces," built in accordance with the different ground contour levels, are con­nected by cement and stone steps. While climbing the steps, tourists will be closely followed by the sea food vendors.

The narrow lane behind Lingshan Temple is now a connecting link in the around-the-island highway. The asphalt­ paved road surface seems to extend into the blue sky. Along the left side of the highway grow lush shrubs and grasses. On the right is the Taiwan Straits. The blue, beautiful sea flaunts the decorative fishing boats. After five to six minutes walking, the Cave of a Beauty comes into sight. The bizarre rocks in this area contribute to its scenic fame.

According to legend, during the reign of Shen Tzung of the Ming Dynas­ty, a beautiful young lady from the city of Soochow in Kiangsu Province ac­companied her father, who was on his way to take up a government position. While they were sailing across the sea, a sudden, strong wind capsized their boat. The official's pretty daughter floated to Hsiaoliuchiu, where she took shelter in the cave, now named in her memory. The legend says that she ate wild fruits and drank the pure spring water, and spent the rest of her life on the island.

Descending the stone steps, the trav­eler sees sharp, coarse coral outcroppings; clinging stems, small trees and grass arise from every side. Golden sunshine penetrates the gaps between the leaves, and soothing breezes slowly blow across the way. This is the setting of the approach to the Cave of a Beauty; it is called Chu Ching Tung Yiu. (A Winding Path Leading to a Secluded Place). It covers only a small distance, but offers limitless tranquility.

At the end of the stone steps, the path divides into two; the right branch leads toward the beach, while the other winds toward more coral outcroppings. The traveler on the path then feels a "pressure" from two walls of coral. When the feeling dissipates, the path is suddenly facing into a valley. This is the scenic spot called Another World - it really is a different world.

Down the stone steps at Another World is the Cave of Bats. The path at this point still snakes its way through coral formations. After seven minutes of walking, the Cave of Immortals appears. Like Another World, this is also a coral formation - a cave covered with clinging vines. On departing the Cave of Immortals, the sunshine becomes brighter and brighter, and the path gradually stretches toward wider coral "reefs." The gray rock surface looks like an old man's wrinkled face.

The winds blow gently from the sea. To the tourists, all appears peaceful and leisurely. But, the path starts to rise at a turn. Despite the warning sign, the curi­ous traveler is unable to resist the sea breeze and the sound of waves, and fol­lows the now risky path. He is now surrounded by strangely formed coastal scenery. Near the sea is a flat, coral plat­form, in which are scattered variously shaped holes, full of tiny marine animals. Waves gently bat the beach, and white foam is occasionally born.

The next stop is the Garden of Happiness. Here, stone stools and tables are conveniently placed for picnics. On leaving the Garden of Happiness, the tourist comes to two diverging roads. A right turn leads to the Maze while the other path goes on to Yi Hsien Tien (A Narrow Vision of the Sky). The Maze is a banyan valley, with the trees' aerial roots extend­ing to wherever crevices exist. Yi Hsien Tien is a formation of cracked coral. The cement path threads through the cracks. The coral walls along the two sides almost touch each other on the top.

The highway leading to the Cave of Black Ghosts appears, level and straight. Silk trees line its sides. The trees are fast growing and are used by the islanders as a firewood source. After passing through the silk trees, the traveler will see tombs piled high with sea-shells along the left side of the highway. On the right are vegetable gardens and the scattered houses of Shanfu Village.

The highway descends, and a beauti­ful vista of the Taiwan Straits comes in view. A small fishing village sits facing the sea. As the highway clings more to the beach, a single glance seems to take in the entire winding shoreline of Hsiaoliuchiu. Passing the Bridge of One Heart, the highway climbs, and then divides into two. The left fork turns to Shanfu Village, and the other heads toward the Cave of Black Ghosts. Here, a pavilion with red top and white pillars offers stone stools and tables for a restful interlude.

The southwestern Hsiaoliuchiu coastline features broken ridges and steep cliffs. Stepping off the highway and looking over the cliff, tourists can see the grandeur of the coast. The round­-the-island highway extends smoothly toward a union with the blue sky. After a 20 minute walk further on, a newly built temple appears on the right. A paved square in front of the temple overlooks the Taiwan Straits. The highway now goes down and toward Haitzukou, a fishing village at the southern tip of Hsiaoliu­chiu. The round-the-island highway detours around the village, but tourists can walk through the village, from the breakwater to the highway. Fuan Temple, the religious center of the villag­ers, is situated at the intersection with the village road. Past the temple, the steep cliffs are gradually replaced by sand beaches. This area is especially suitable for water sports. On the left side of the highway are strangely shaped wild pineapple bushes.

Now the road passes between two giant rocks. The area is called Chien Nu Tai - Pedestal for a Fair Lady. They say the area was the locale for a sad story: Asan and Ahsiang were lovers. Whenev­er Asan went out to sea to fish, Ashiang would sit on a big rock, waiting for his return. But, one time Asan did not return to the village. The girl waited for him on the rock every day. She swore never to marry anyone else. After she died, two trees grew on the rock. The residents of the island named the rock in her memory.

The rock was later divided into two to allow the round-the-island highway to pass through it. Hollows in the nearby ridges are used as sheepfolds by local residents.

The 20-meter-wide sand beach near Chien Nu Tai, is hushed with wave sounds and sea breezes. A five-minute walk away is Houshih Village. People here have utilized hollows in the coral ridges as both sheepfolds and houses. Filled with a door, a hollow can be a durable, clean villa, protected from oceanic storms.

With its flat top, the Cave of Lob­sters was formed in old coral reefs. One side, like a screen, goes straight down to the sea. Residents of the island set lob­ster traps here. A trail leads to the inside of the cave, a fine place to play in the sea.

After departing the cave, walking on the highway, the tourist sees more vil­lages, scattered along its route. Hiking past the Chihwang Temple and the Hsiaoliuchiu Recreation Center, trave­lers hear, once again, the familiar motor sounds from the wharf, their first and last stop on this pleasant island.