Taiwan Today

Matsu boasts a distinctive and precious array of cultural, historical and military attractions.

In the early 2000s, Tso Kai-chi (曹楷智‬) decided to return home to Matsu and pursue an artistic career. After 20 odd years of working and studying fine arts in Taiwan proper and Spain, he was ready for a change.

“It’s quite ironic,” Tso said. “As a young man, I couldn’t wait to get away as the isolation and restricted civil liberties during martial law were too much to bear.” Although he never grew tired of freedom and the sights and delights of the broader world, Tso came to realize that Matsu under civilian rule was a place he could not only survive, but thrive.

For decades, the archipelago of 36 islands lying nearly 10 kilometers off the coast of China’s Fujian province was on the front line of cross-strait tensions. On Nov. 7, 1992, martial law was lifted in Matsu—five years after Taiwan proper—and administration transferred to Lienchiang County Government (LCG). By 1994, travel restrictions to and in many parts of the archipelago had been eased.

Maritime Creativity

Over the years, Tso has produced paintings featuring Matsu’s blockhouses, fishing boats, stone houses and temples, as well as natural vistas like blue skies dotted with clouds, mountains and oceans. He is also involved in community arts and cultural development programs. “This is an outstanding environment for artistic development,” he said. “Picturesque landscapes, historic structures, a slow pace of life and unique military history are all sources of inspiration.”

Candy Liu (劉枝蓮), a native of Matsu, shares Tso’s passion for promoting the islands’ culture and distinctive characteristics through artistic creation and resident participation. She has published several pieces of poetry and prose about Matsu’s charms and military past, and is chairwoman of the Matsu Arts and Cultural Association (MACA).

Matsu is renowned for its beautiful coastlines, century-old lighthouses and traditional settlements, Liu said. But the most important cultural properties are the artillery batteries, strongholds and tunnels throughout the county’s four townships of Beigan, Dongyin, Juguang and Nangan, she added.

The modern military chapter in Matsu’s history opened in 1949 with the arrival of government troops. But advances in weapons technology and an easing in Taipei-Beijing tensions saw Matsu lose its value as a defensive base. From a peak strength of 50,000 in the 1980s, the armed forces numbers no more than a few thousand today.

According to Liu, the military installations are stark reminders of high political tensions and the all-too-real threat of cross-strait conflict during the Cold War. “They’re also testament to sad tales of loss and sacrifice during this 43-year period that should be preserved for future generations,” she said.

Cultural Commitment

Not one for lip service, Liu set about playing her part in the process with gusto. In 2016, she published “Eyes under the Sky: Stories about My Family and the Matsu Islands.” Based largely on interviews with seniors, the book is a retrospective of the experiences of her family members and important events taking place in the archipelago from 1949 to the 1980s. Another measure is the conversion of her father’s seaside stone house into a guesthouse and venue for holding arts and cultural activities.

MACA regularly uses the building for staging dance, drama and music performances, as well as exhibitions, lectures and writing classes. “We’re giving locals the chance to lead a larger cultural life while introducing fresh creative influences,” she said. “These efforts are helping foster a flourishing arts and cultural scene that is fast becoming a drawcard for visitors from home and abroad.”

Wu Hsiao-yun (吳曉雲‬), director of LCG’s Cultural Affairs Department, shares Liu’s sentiments when it comes to the cultural characteristics of Matsu. Studying history and discovering how major events have affected the islands’ overall development are key to shaping policies for the future, she said.

Matsu experienced two waves of immigration during the early 1800s and 1910s, Wu said, with many fishermen from eastern Fujian settling and bringing beliefs, customs and the Fuzhou dialect to the islands. “This movement of people resulted in the formation of our unique society.”

Military heritage is an equally important aspect of the county’s cultural makeup, and one of the reasons the Ministry of Culture identified it as a potential submission from Taiwan for the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2009. “Both aspects illustrate Matsu’s history and provide a powerful sense of identity,” Wu said, adding that they are what make the islands unique and worth visiting.

Based on this foundation, LCG has initiated numerous preservation and repurposing projects over the years. These save structures from collapse or demolition while developing cultural tourism as a viable means of creating employment and spurring economic growth.

Outstanding Structures

In Wu’s opinion, the best preserved eastern Fujian-style buildings, mainly constructed during the late 1800s and early 1900s, can be found at Qinbi Village in Beigan. Characterized by free-standing outer walls, a square layout and high, small windows, the stone houses dot the steep hillsides in an orderly fashion.

Military architecture is also thick on the ground. In addition to its 250-plus air raid shelters, Matsu purportedly boasts the highest density of tunnels in the world. Originally used as ammunition dumps, command centers, fuel depots, hospitals and docks, they now lie dormant awaiting a new mission.

The best-known example is Beihai Tunnel. Built in 1968 for amphibious landing craft and small naval vessels, the 640-meter-long structure was carved out of granite by thousands of soldiers using picks, shovels and explosives. The blood, sweat and tears of these troops, as well as the ghosts of those who lost their lives in the process—according to local lore—can be experienced by visitors willing to descend into the gloom and explore the tunnel on foot or by boat.

Wang Hua-di (王花俤), chairman of Matsu Battlefield Cultural Heritage Society (MBCHS), remembers the many inconveniences and restrictions locals endured when Matsu was under military rule. “We needed to apply for a permit when going from one village to another,” he said. “And there was even a political officer stationed among us keeping an eye out for subversive behavior.”

All males between 16 and 55 and childless females between 16 and 35 were required to join the self-defense forces and take military education and training courses. But preserving these memories, as well as the physical remnants of those days—including patriotic signs—is needed to help young people learn from the past.

MBCHS, established in 2015, is conducting an inventory of local properties with cultural or historical significance. This is complemented by designing programs for conserving these assets and related education courses for the county’s schools. The first collaborative project between the society and LCG involves the renovation and revitalization of Victory Fort near Fuao Harbor in Nangan as a cultural museum.

Since opening last November, the structure has proved popular with residents and tourists seeking to learn more about Matsu’s role during the Cold War. The exhibits, interactive displays, photos and videos have lured about 10,000 visitors to date, according to LCG.

Passion Project

As a retired history teacher, Wang has plenty of time to spend compiling materials pertaining to the archipelago’s geography, history and society, as well as conducting field research and writing about the county’s festivals and folk rituals. “I like to think that my efforts, and those of other culture and history enthusiasts, are helping spark a broader interest in Matsu’s heritage,” he said.

For Wang, one of the most interesting elements of the islands’ culture is the worship of Mazu, the goddess of the sea. Matsu is bristling with temples dedicated to the deity, and the annual festivals and rituals are a source of great pride for locals. The largest and most lively celebration is Baiming Carnival, which takes place during Lantern Festival around the 15th day of the first month of the Chinese lunar calendar, he said.

Baiming ceremonies, originating in the rural communities of Fuzhou city in Fujian, are held at different temples countywide. They feature eye-catching food offerings prepared by villagers at night to thank the gods for their protection and colorful processions to ward off evil spirits. Another time-honored eastern Fujian custom is the Burning Pagoda ritual held during Moon Festival in Nangan’s Renai Village. It symbolizes replacing the old with the new and consigning bad luck to the annals of history.

Wu is a true believer in Matsu’s potential as a world-class tourism destination. “Eastern Fujian culture, disused military facilities, quaint stone houses, temples and the Mazu religion form an extraordinarily rich cultural tapestry,” she said. “They’re also invaluable assets giving the county a real chance of successfully embarking on a new mission for the 21st century.”

Write to Kelly Her at kher@mofa.gov.tw