The major sights and attractions in downtown Taipei often monopolize most of a traveler’s time in northern Taiwan. Beyond this bustling metropolis and its suburbs, however, it is possible to reach destinations in less than two hours that reveal another side of the island—locations that feature rugged and spectacular coastal and mountain scenery.
Such stunning views are plentiful throughout the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area, making it a perfect destination to visit for a holiday or recreation. Located in the northeast corner of Taiwan and facing the Pacific Ocean, the coastline of the scenic area stretches 102.5 kilometers from Nanya Village in Ruifang Township, Taipei County at the northern tip of the area to Neipi Beach of Yilan County’s Suao Township at its southernmost end. This is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts, with swimming and surfing beaches for summer crowds fleeing the heat of downtown Taipei, as well as a number of well-designed hiking trails and bike paths along the coastal bluffs and even through a historic tunnel.
“The northeast coast is noted for its numerous capes and bays backed by green mountains,” says Eric Lin, director of the Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration, which is under the supervision of the nation’s Tourism Bureau. “Its attractions include superb landscapes of strange and incredible rock formations, landforms eroded by the sea, sandy beaches and a huge range of marine life. Generally speaking, it serves the dual functions of a natural classroom and a coastal playground,” he says. “There are few places in the world that can rival this area in terms of sporting options based around mountains and the sea.”
Indeed, every year tourists throng the blue waters and fine beaches of the northeast coast to enjoy water sports including scuba diving, rock fishing, swimming, sunbathing and surfing. For those looking for something more tranquil, just lying on one of the many natural rock platforms that have formed along the coastline and gazing at the boundless Pacific Ocean is also relaxing.
One of Taiwan’s premier diving locations, and certainly the best in the north, is Longdong Bay Park not far from Nanya. Its cool, relatively clear water and rich marine ecology make this an ideal spot for swimming, kayaking and scuba diving. Around 80 species of fish can be found here, making this a place where rock fishermen often gather to try their skill. South of the park lies a famous spot for rock climbing, where the nearly 1-kilometer-long natural rock wall attracts climbing enthusiasts from all over the world.
For surfers, Honeymoon Bay is one of the most popular sites in northeastern Taiwan. (Photo Courtesy of Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration)
Further south is Longdong South Ocean Park in Gongliao Township, Taipei County, a huge outdoor amusement park with recreational facilities that include a marina, five seawater swimming pools and an oceanic exhibition hall. Here, visitors can participate in a variety of water activities such as swimming, snorkeling or simply observing the ocean ecology. The water in its pools, once used to farm abalone, is around knee-deep at low tide, but surges to some 3 meters in depth at high tide, thus offering visitors the opportunity to swim with the fish.
“This is the best classroom I’ve ever known to combine seashore fun with outdoor education. This is also where my kid began to learn how to swim. I really love it here,” says Jason Hsu, who was visiting with his wife and five-year-old son.
Lying some 10 kilometers south of Longdong South Ocean Park, the 80-hectare Yanliao Coast Park, also in Gongliao, is the largest developed recreational site within the northeast coast scenic area. The park is perfect for swimming, surfing, sand sculpting, beach volleyball and beach fishing, among other activities. Its facilities include a children’s water park combining opportunities for recreation and education and several cafes with pretty seaside views.
Yanliao Coast Park is part of Fulong Beach, which stretches three kilometers south to Fulong Village. In fact, Fulong Beach is one of Taiwan’s most famous summer vacation spots due to its golden sand beach, which contrasts markedly with much of northeastern Taiwan’s coastline, where many beaches are covered with pebbles. Here, visitors usually enjoy the sandy beach by building sandcastles or taking off their shoes to walk along the shore barefoot. Fulong’s waters also remain warm enough for swimming well into autumn, making it a popular day-trip destination for many months of the year.
“Generally speaking, the big beach and calm water at Fulong make it a fine location for non-motorized water activities such as windsurfing, rowing and kayaking, while the beach itself is great for swimming, sunbathing, sand sculpting and playing with Frisbees,” director Eric Lin adds. “Fulong’s waves are suitable for novice swimmers and are generally not too strong even for young children. The beach is also popular for various beach sports such as volleyball and soccer among younger groups of friends, if it’s not too hot.”
Dong Shan River Park offers an open green space with water recreation facilities. (Photo by Huang Chung-hsin)
Rock Music, Surfers
One of Fulong’s annual highlights is the Hohaiyan Rock Festival, which features indie bands from home and abroad and draws thousands of rock fans each summer for a three-day music party on the beach.
Around 18.5 kilometers south of Fulong in neighboring Daxi Village, part of Toucheng Township, Yilan County, lies a pleasant surfing beach known as Honeymoon Bay. The waves are generally chest to head high, but they can get much higher, especially during the summer typhoon season. It is an outstanding venue for surfing all year round, and national surfing contests are held there annually. Non-surfers are also lured by the beach’s soft sand and beautiful sunrises.
Towards the southern end of the national scenic area is Dong Shan River Park, covering spacious grounds in Yilan County’s Wujie Township. It is one of Yilan’s major destinations and also one of the hottest scenic spots in Taiwan. “The idea behind the park is to offer an open green space with water recreation facilities, thereby fulfilling different purposes including tourism, leisure and education,” Eric Lin explains.
The park is set up for riverside fun and water activities suitable for a wide range of ages. There is an ecological reserve, an outdoor theater, an astronomical observatory and a waterfront zone, not to mention a winding river course with shallow pools where visitors can wade in the water and deeper areas where they can row boats or paddle canoes. Alongside the river runs an 8-kilometer bicycle path where cyclists can take in the sights of Yilan’s indigenous plants and birds.
“What a green, relaxing park! It’s so much fun to take a boat down the river at twilight. Don’t you think it’s a romantic place?” says Chou Li-hsin, a college student who had just finished boating on the Dongshan River, his girlfriend by his side.
In addition to these activities, several well-known international rowing contests, dragon boat competitions and an international children’s festival are also held at the water park each summer.
Along the Caoling Historic Trail, hikers can see a number of protected historical sites, like this “Tiger Inscription” stele. (Photo Courtesy of Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration)
Crossing the Nanfangao Bridge, near the southernmost tip of the scenic area, one finds Tofu Cape Recreational Area, a bay that abounds with rock formations said to resemble pieces of tofu. Here, tourists can enjoy the sea breeze and admire the striking views. It is also a popular site for barbecues by the beach and snorkeling.
Aside from water activities, there is much to recommend hiking within the national scenic area. A place where the mountains meet the sea, the region affords stunning oceanic vistas from pleasant trails through the nearby hills, away from the surf. “Just take a day off, dress casually and try the trails here,” Eric Lin says. “You can get a real taste of the natural beauty of this area.”
At the northern end of the scenic area, for example, the Nanya, Nanzilin, Bitou Cape and Longdong Bay Cape walking trails are easy routes with great views. The Nanya Geology Trail begins at Nanya Peculiar Rock (a rock formation resulting from wind and water erosion of the area’s sandstone and said to resemble an ice cream cone), then stretches westward and connects with the Nanzilin Trail. The Bitou Cape Trail branches into three well-planned routes leading up to the bluffs, where hikers are rewarded with fantastic views of sea cliffs that make a sheer drop into the sea. The winding path continues south to meet the Longdong Bay Cape Trail, which ends at Longdong South Ocean Park.
Walking History
For hikers who enjoy both challenging trails and beautiful landscapes, the Caoling Historic Trail is one of the best choices. Established in 1807, the trail is one of the few historical routes left in Taiwan. Most of the original trail has now returned to a natural state, but the rustic 8.5-kilometer-long section between Fulong and neighboring Dali Village in Toucheng Township has been restored and takes around three to four hours to walk. The trail offers commanding views of the area, and it is possible to see a number of protected historical sites along the way. While the path is broad and easy to follow, there are some challenging grades along its winding slopes. Fortunately, there are also several pavilions in which to rest en route.
“The sights offered by the trail are especially beautiful in fall, when fields of Chinese silver grass sway in the wind,” Eric Lin says.
“Hikers intending to try the trail had better start early, because it’s usually scorching hot around noon, especially in summer,” suggests Huang Chun-mei, 72, a frequent visitor who had just exited the trail. “Stock up with some food and plenty to drink because there are no vendors or other refreshment facilities along the way.”
After its reopening in 2008, the Old Caoling Tunnel became an instant hit with bicycle riders. (Photo Courtesy of Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area Administration)
On weekends and holidays, there are also growing numbers of cyclists taking to the hilly roads in the region. Eric Lin touts the area’s bike routes, saying they are safe and convenient so that families can feel free to relax and enjoy the scenery as they pedal. Among the numerous bicycle paths within the scenic area, the 2,167-meter-long Old Caoling Tunnel from Shicheng Village, Toucheng Township to Gongliao is one the director strongly recommends. First opened in 1924 during Japanese colonial rule (1895–1945) as a single-track railway tunnel, it was once part of a key railway line connecting northwestern and eastern Taiwan and at that time was the island’s longest tunnel. It was also the subject of the well-known Taiwanese folk song Diu Diu Dang, a reference to the sounds of a steam engine passing through the tunnel and a tune that Taiwanese parents still sing to their children today.
The Old Caoling Tunnel was officially closed in 1986, but was reopened as part of a bikeway in 2008. “Our administration decided to transform the tunnel into a tourist attraction, so all the railway tracks were removed and a new asphalt road was laid down, allowing cyclists to ride through the tunnel,” Eric Lin explains.
Following the reopening, the tunnel became an instant hit with bicycle riders. Inside, a series of dim lights allow cyclists to see well enough. The sounds of old train whistles have also been installed, creating the illusion that visitors have to move aside quickly to accommodate the oncoming train. “When you pass through the tunnel, you breathe the cool, inviting air and hear the sounds of train whistles. I bet you can’t have a similar experience anywhere else in Taiwan, or perhaps in the whole world,” says John Chen, a retired senior-high-school teacher who had just completed a ride through the tunnel. “It’s hard to resist such a nostalgic atmosphere.”
After making their way through the historic tunnel, bike riders can continue their tour north to Fulong Beach, crossing the picturesque Longmen Suspension Bridge, a 200-meter-long bridge that spans the Shuangxi River, and from there cycle on to Yanliao Coast Park, a trip of around 4.5 kilometers. “Convenient signs in both Chinese and English are in place to introduce historic sites and interesting places along the entire path,” Eric Lin adds.
While other parts of the island may tout high-profile attractions, the northeast coast offers relaxing day-trip options to encourage visitors to leave the traffic jams behind and head for this scenic area. With its impressive coastal scenery and stunning mountain views, tourists are sure to return home with beautiful memories.
Transportation Tips
By Train
The trip takes about 1-1.5 hours one way
Northbound trains heading for Yilan, Hualien or Taitung service Fulong, Toucheng and Suao
By Bus
Fleets of privately owned buses run services from Taipei City's Taipei West Bus Station Terminal A and Taipei City Hall Bus Station, as well as from Keelung City, to destinations throughout the scenic area. (Please visit www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw for more details.)
Write to Dennis Chang at dennis0602@mail.gio.gov.tw