Taiwan Today

Once a dilapidated city block in Taipei, Bopiliao now shows off its architectural splendor and historical significance with a brand new look.

If you want to know more about Taipei’s history, the centuries-old street of Bopiliao offers a chance to experience the life of the old city first hand. Bopiliao Historic Block lies in the oldest developed district in Taipei City, Wanhua, which is located on the east bank of the Danshui River. It is one of the very few well-preserved historic sites in the city, dating back to 1799 when the name “Fupiliao” first appeared on a land deed in Wanhua.

The street’s surroundings are full of wonders as well. Within walking distance, visitors here have easy access to Lungshan Temple, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Taipei, which is lauded for its exquisite stone sculptures and woodcarvings. Along the eastern boundary of the temple is the famous Herb Lane, with shops and stalls selling herbs and medicinal plants. And moving north, the recreation district called Ximenting—today a popular meeting place of the city’s youth—is only a few blocks away, including the historic Red House Theater.

By contrast, the meaning of the name “Bopiliao” seems frightening. In Mandarin, bo means to peel, pi means skin or surface, and liao is a type of hut or work station. People may wonder what kind of skins were peeled here in the old days, but according to Chang Chin-peng, director of the Heritage and Culture Education Center (HCEC) of Taipei City, the place has nothing to do with any horror scenes such as those seen in the movie The Texas Chainsaw Massacre.

“There are different stories of the derivation of the name Bopiliao. One comes from the processing of peeled bark. In early days, this block was a market for charcoal,” Chang says. “But another possibility seems more compelling. This area was first known as ‘Fupiliao’ and then ‘Beipiliao.’ In Mandarin bei, which means north, sounds like bo in Holo, which also means to peel, so this is most likely how the name ‘Bopiliao’ came about.”

Over the centuries, Taiwan experienced Qing-dynasty rule (1683–1895) and Japanese colonization (1895–1945), as evidenced by two contrasting architectural styles seen in Bopiliao. Nowadays, traditional Qing buildings can be found on the north side of this block, while the structures on the south side are mostly Japanese buildings.

“Bopiliao is adjacent to Laosong Elementary School. During Japanese rule, this block was designated for use by the school, and the policy remained unchanged after the Republic of China government took over Taiwan in 1945. Consequently, any further expansion or rebuilding within Bopiliao was restricted, and so its buildings were preserved,” Chang explains.

Even at a glance, the architectural features of buildings on this street are striking. On the north side, the ground floor storefronts are set back from the street, thereby providing an arcade for passersby, shielding them from sun or rain. On the south side, each house has a unique appearance, with façades adorned with decorative motifs such as flowers, plants and other designs.

“Nowadays, it’s hard to imagine how a short block in Taipei City could have two such different styles of old buildings. I just love to spend time here to enjoy the architectural beauty of the place,” says Chen Huan-tze, an architect and a volunteer tour guide at Bopiliao.

In its heyday, Bopiliao was a miniature community in itself given the variety of shops that lined the street. At one time, the north side was home to a trading company, a teahouse, an altar, an inn and a bookbinding factory, while the south side was comprised of a noodle shop, a rice store, a bathhouse and a hospital. Those bygone days still evoke vivid memories among local residents.

“I’ve been to Bopiliao several times and these buildings always remind me of the golden days of Wanhua,” says Wang Hsu-te, an elderly visitor who has lived nearby since his childhood.

Wanhua is also known as “Mengjia” in Mandarin, but today the area’s locals more commonly use the name “Manka,” which means canoe in a local aboriginal dialect. In 1862, the port in Danshui, northern Taipei was opened to foreign trade following the Qing defeat to Western forces in the Second Opium War (1856–1860). Afterwards, northern Taiwan surpassed southern Taiwan as the island’s political and economic center. With a major trading port in the neighborhood for exporting tea, coal and camphor, Manka became the most thriving area of Taipei. During the Qing period, Manka, Lugang and Tainan were touted as the metropolises of northern, central and southern Taiwan, respectively.

Since the 1980s, however, the eastern area of Taipei City has emerged as the new shining star of the city’s commercial, financial and entertainment sectors. By contrast, Wanhua, the cradle of Taipei’s development, has become an aging community. Even worse, in the minds of the general public, Wanhua is often closely associated with such negative social factors as gangsters and prostitution, while the price of real estate in the district has fallen greatly behind other parts of the city.

“Bopiliao has witnessed the rise of Taipei City and the fall of Wanhua,” says Wang Hsu-te. “As a resident here, I’m eager to see a new Wanhua, and Bopiliao could be a starting point for this area’s rebirth.”

The road to Bopiliao’s restoration was not always smooth, however. In the late 1980s, the issue was debated of whether to preserve the block as a historic site or rebuild it as part of Laosong Elementary School. Many cultural workers and local residents actively fought for its conservation and finally, the Taipei City Government decided to rehabilitate and reutilize this decaying block. After years of land acquisitions and building renovations, on August 29, 2009, Bopiliao Historic Block was officially opened to the public with a brand new appearance.

Art, Innovation

“By injecting creativity into this old block, we hope that Bopiliao will become an amalgam of art and innovation—a new landmark for cultural tourism in western Taipei City,” said Lee Yong-ping, commissioner of the city government’s Department of Cultural Affairs and now deputy mayor of Taipei City, at the inauguration ceremony.

On the same day, the Bopiarts—Old Street Cultural Festival opened to celebrate the rebirth of Bopiliao. Outstanding visual artists and performing artists from Taiwan and abroad were invited to present works related to the block. During the two-month-long festival, around 80,000 visitors enjoyed a cultural tour of the area.

“Old towns are precious assets to every city, as each possesses cultural significance and its own local spirit,” says Liu Wei-kung, project director of the festival. “As residents of Taipei City, we now no longer have to envy those old towns in other countries, because we have Bopiliao in Taipei.”

On the east corner of the Bopiliao Historic Block is the HCEC, established by the Taipei City Government’s Department of Education in 2003 and opened in 2006. For those who plan to take a stroll along this old street, HCEC Director Chang Chin-peng strongly recommends paying a visit to the center first to get a better understanding of the history of Bopiliao, as well as Taipei.

“The center combines education with entertainment for children and adults alike to learn more about the area’s local history and heritage,” Chang says. “The HCEC hopes its permanent and special exhibitions will help to strengthen the bonds between local residents and their neighborhood.”

Currently, nearly 50 volunteer workers provide various services at the HCEC, with most of them acting as tour guides for visitors to this historic block. Yang Mei-yi, once a volunteer at Laosong Elementary School, is one of them. “I decided to join the center as soon as I knew volunteers were needed here,” she says. “Unlike other historic streets, which are often packed with stalls and food stands, Bopiliao is by no means commercial. It’s a clean and serene place, and I’m very proud to work here.”

Inside the HCEC, there are three permanent exhibitions on site entitled Taiwan’s Medical Development, Taiwan’s Educational Development and The Story of Bopiliao. The medical exhibition elaborates on the life story of Lu A-chang (1894–1955), a local doctor who was reputed for his medical skills and benevolence in treating the poor for free. Actually, the exhibition site is where Lu used to live and practice medicine. In addition, visitors can learn Taiwan’s medical history from a fictional conversation among three foreign missionaries, namely James Laidlaw Maxwell, George Leslie Mackay and David Landsborough, who began their medical work in Taiwan during the second half of the 19th century. Also introduced here are various traditional herbal remedies, with a large cupboard on display containing different herbs. By opening any one of the cupboard’s drawers, visitors will find a herbal plant inside, while a cartoon character appears on a screen to explain the remedy.

Have you ever wondered what the textbooks used by older generations looked like? Thought about what kinds of toys they were hiding in their school desk drawers? In the Taiwan’s Educational Development exhibition, you might find the answers to satisfy your curiosity. Furthermore, since the Imperial Examination System for officials in China lasted for 1,300 years (605–1905) and Taiwan was under its influence during Qing rule, visitors can become acquainted with how many “torturous experiences” an examinee had to endure to be successful.

And last but not least, the Story of Bopiliao section tells not only the history of this old street, but also of its neighborhood. There are also informative videos and interesting interactive gadgets such as an old-fashioned telephone set up so that when the listener picks up the receiver he or she can hear recorded tales of the area and old songs. There is even an old-style pedicab for visitors to try, as well as a model sailing junk to experience the modes of transportation of the past.

“The center is like a museum that combines fun with cultural and educational activities. Hopefully, visitors here will acquire a new and better impression of Bopiliao and even the Wanhua area,” says Hsiao Yen-sung, a volunteer worker at the HCEC and a retired junior high school teacher.

Recently, a movie called Monga, which was scheduled for release this month, has received widespread attention in Taiwan. This film depicts Wanhua in its heyday, and Bopiliao is one of its main backdrops. “In 2008, the movie Cape No.7 was very popular and has attracted hordes of people to visit its settings. Hopefully, Monga will copy the success of Cape No.7, so Bopiliao can also play an important role in promoting tourism in Wanhua,” HCEC’s Chang Chin-peng adds.

For those who enjoy the comforts of the old and familiar while enthusiastically embracing the new, Bopiliao is surely a local point of interest that deserves to be included into their itineraries, not to mention its being surrounded by many of Taipei’s cultural, historical, religious and even recreational sites. Residents of Wanhua also have one more thing to take pride in—a historic site that helps enrich local culture, enhance tourism and improve the area’s image. With renewed vitality and a brand new appearance, Bopiliao now heartily welcomes visitors to step back into Taipei’s history.

Write to Dennis Chang at dennis0602@mail.gio.gov.tw