In the 1970 U.S. No. 1 hit “War,” Motown soul singer Edwin Starr famously asked “What is it good for?” His answer, “absolutely nothing,” was shared by many around the world, reflecting the zeitgeist of the day. But for Taiwan’s outlying Lienchiang County, war and all its trappings—reminders of an all-out conflict with communist mainland China that never came—are good for something: promoting the region as a niche market tourism destination.
Lying less than one kilometer off the coast of mainland China’s Fujian province in the mouth of the Min River, Matsu’s 36 islands are home to around 5,000 ROC military personnel and play an integral role in safeguarding national security. For more than 60 years the county has stood on guard against communist aggression, but with cross-strait relations going from strength to strength, the 28.8-square-kilometer archipelago now looks forward to welcoming tourists in civvies brandishing cameras as opposed to camouflage green and assault rifles.
Liu Te-chuan, director of the county government’s Tourism Bureau, is optimistic about Matsu’s chances of building prosperity based on its storied military past. He envisages a bright future where niche market tourists from around the world make their way to the islands in search of unique experiences.
“Asia saw some of the world’s biggest conflicts and standoffs during the post-World War II era,” Liu said Sept. 7 in an interview with Taiwan Today. “Indochina, Korea, Malaya, and [mainland] China were witness to epic clashes between capitalist and communist forces.”
In the rush to break with colonialism and embrace modernity, Liu said, many Asian countries chose not to preserve these fascinating chapters of their histories. “Military buffs are often frustrated when visiting these destinations because so many of the sites no longer exist or are re-creations.”
By comparison, Matsu is a veritable treasure trove of authentic Cold War installations and memorabilia due to the islands being off-limits until 1994. According to the county government, 256 blockhouses, air raid shelters, tunnels and other disused underground military facilities are located throughout Lienchiang’s four townships of Beigan, Dongyin, Juguang and Nangan. This number is expected to rise as the Ministry of National Defense continues opening up facilities for public access.
“We have the highest density and longest military tunnels anywhere in the world,” Liu said. “And with the right promotion, these installations can live again as top-flight tourist attractions or take on new personas such as art galleries, cafes, boutique hotels, museums and restaurants.”
An example of this successful strategy is illustrated by Tunnel 88, a 264-meter-long former air raid shelter on Nangan, Matsu’s largest and most populous island. Once linking the Skyscraper Ridge area with the airport, the dimly lit facility is now a granite cellar for ageing rice and sorghum wines produced by nearby Matsu Distillery; its year-round temperature of 17-20 degrees Celsius, ideal for eliminating impurities from the islands’ smooth-as-silk tipples.
Liu believes that the transformation of Tunnel 88 from a dilapidated military installation to major tourist attraction shows what can be accomplished with other sites in more picturesque and accessible parts of the county.
“There is no reason why the Tunnel 88 model cannot be replicated elsewhere,” he said. “The site is now a must-see for any visitor to the islands and has helped boost interest in the distillery and sales.”
But Liu said Tunnel 88 liquor has become a victim of its own success, with many tourists mistakenly thinking it is produced in Taiwan’s outlying Kinmen County, a 150.5-square-kilometer group of 12 islands situated just over two kilometers off the southeastern coast of Fujian.
“Matsu and Kinmen are both ROC military strongholds located close to mainland China and both produce sorghum liquor, but that is where the similarities end,” Liu said. “Tunnel 88 is an aged product released in limited quantities while Kinmen’s offering is a mass market drink better suited to alcohol-fueled banquets.”
This problem, which is being addressed by the county government in conjunction with the Matsu National Scenic Area Administration, is symptomatic of the challenges faced in getting the islands out from under the long shadow of better-known Kinmen.
MNSAA Director Guu Yung-yuan concedes that boosting Matsu’s profile in the market is a work in progress, and will not be accomplished overnight.
“In the eyes of many tourists, Matsu and Kinmen are twinned with neither enjoying an advantage over the other,” he said. “What we have to do is promote the islands’ array of cultural, ecological, military and religious attractions while pursuing a high-value, low-volume tourism approach centered on lifestyles of health and sustainability.”
MNSAA plans in the pipeline include developing a number of soon-to-be-released military facilities in the northern part of the county, setting up themed tours and working with the private sector to establish a wider selection of accommodation and restaurants.
“We need to capitalize on Matsu’s manageable number of visitors by preserving attractions and offering quality tourism experiences that cannot be had elsewhere,” Guu said. “In that way, we cater to the higher end of the market and create greater value.”
Guu cites new touring options implemented at Nangan’s Beiha Tunnel as an example of this value-added policy. The 640-meter-long tunnel, which is 18 meters high and 10 meters wide, took thousands of soldiers armed with picks, shovels and more than a few sticks of dynamite 800 days to complete. Able to shelter 100 small ocean-going vessels from bombardment and bad weather, the tunnel is an impressive feat of circa 1968 engineering that is one of the most popular attractions in the county.
The MNSAA offers visitors the choice of being poled through the tunnel in a large pontoon, or donning life jackets and taking to the water in canoes. For those choosing the latter, a mandatory training session is par for the course before paddling into the granite gloom.
In theory, the idea is a sound one that provides tourists with a special view of Beiha and instills greater appreciation for the sacrifices made by ROC military personnel in creating the facility. It also provides the MNSAA with a valuable source of additional revenue, which is channeled into the tunnel’s upkeep and providing better park services.
Malcolm Walpole, a Leicester native from the U.K. visiting Matsu for the first time, said the idea of paddling his way through Beiha is not without appeal, but wonders if it might detract from the solemnity of the site.
“A lot of men died carving out this installation,” he said while waiting in a long queue to tour the tunnel. “I would hate to see their sacrifices cheapened by a gimmick aimed at grabbing a few extra shekels from visitors.”
According to Walpole, Beiha is a “smashing” attraction and one of the main reasons for his trip to the islands. “As an amateur military historian, I have travelled the world touring former battlefields and military installations,” he said. “Authentic sites such as these are as rare as hen’s teeth and would draw enthusiasts from all over.”
Unfortunately for Walpole, his visit to the tunnel coincided with the weekend arrival of 2,000 mountain climbers from Taiwan proper, who descended on Matsu like a swarm of locusts, devouring accommodation, restaurant, tourism and transportation capacity in Biblical proportions. What should have been the highlight of his trip turned into a frustrating waste of an afternoon.
After waiting nearly two hours to tour Beiha, a disappointed Walpole raised the white flag and trudged back dejectedly to the entrance along with 40 or so would-be visitors. “There were too many people down there and the staff had no hope of getting everyone in before closing time,” he said. “The canoe is a decent enough idea under ideal conditions, but absolutely bonkers if there are crowds.”
In defense of the initiative, Guu said staff must maintain the highest safety standards and at peak times, this may result in delays. “We hope visitors can bear with us and be patient. Our aim is to let everyone experience the tunnel in the manner that best suits them.”
The issue of overcrowding at Matsu’s military attractions during peak periods is not confined to Beiha Tunnel. The Iron Fort, which protects the entrance of Nangan’s Ren-ai Harbor, regularly hosts large numbers of tourists eager to climb through its concrete innards replete with dormitories, German shepherd dog pen, guard houses, machine gun posts and offices. Accessed by road or Jinren Walking Trail from neighboring 100-year-old Jinsha Village, the fort is another Matsu must-see that can require more than just a little patience to enjoy in all its glory.
In Guu’s opinion, the best way to explore the county is by scooter or on foot, which explains why the MNSAA has invested heavily in building walking trails, lookouts and multilingual signs at key sites. In addition, the administration is undertaking more projects aimed at preserving heritage sites such as traditional villages.
Jinsha Village, a former strategic stronghold and usually the first place shelled by the communists during artillery duels, is a beneficiary of this MNSAA assistance. Residents once relied on the sea for their living but after the local fisheries collapsed, they moved out en masse creating a near-ghost town. Today, the sound of stonemason’s hammers and chisels tapping away at granite blocks can be heard as the village undergoes a renaissance of sorts en route to becoming a minor center for bed-and-breakfast accommodation.
Cram-packed with fascinating ROC military and fishing industry relics, the village’s streets and ruined dwellings provide rare glimpses of a unique period in history spanning the Taiwan Strait. One highlight is the oceanfront Fort Art Gallery, its colorful entrance emblazoned with telling slogans of the day urging visitors to “Fight against the communists, resist the Russians, kill Ju De and remove Mao Zedong.” Although the interior and some of its artwork were damaged during last month’s Typhoon Nanmadol, the MNSAA is attempting to get the site back up and running for the autumn tourist season.
Guu believes MNSAA and county government promotion campaigns are succeeding in helping Matsu train its sights on the lucrative military tourism market. And as further initiatives come on line, the islands can look forward to becoming one of Taiwan’s most important sources of inbound tourism, he added.
“It is important to remember that transforming Matsu from a frontline military base to a major tourism destination is not just about keeping residents happy. This process also reminds people of the value of peace during the Cold War and the sacrifices made in achieving this.” (JSM)
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