Yehliu, located on a long promontory along Taiwan’s north coast, is famous for its special rock formations, the result of sea erosion and the volcanic structure of the island. Sailors stayed clear of that part of the coast because of the complex undercurrents and hidden rocks. It was so dangerous that the Spanish explorers named it “Punto Diablos,” or diabolic cape. Some etymologists believe this is the origin of the name “Yia-liu,” which sounds like “diablo” without the letters d and b.
Local folklore has it that around 1820, when the island of Formosa was under the Ching dynasty rule (1644-1912), fishermen found a ship grounded on a coral reef off Yehliu. The vessel was empty—no men, no cargo—except for a figurine and a pair of cornerstones. The statue was later identified as that of Chen Yuan-guang (657-711), a famous general who helped the Tang emperors (618-907) develop southern China and was later admitted in the Taoist pantheon under the name of Sagely King Kai Zhang. The fishermen dragged the ship to the village and used the cornerstones to build a temple in honor of the general and a number of other Taoist gods. Today, Baoan temple still stands right in front of the harbor and looks magnificent after its third renovation. It is Yehliu’s spiritual center and the heart of the ceremony.
The harbor cleansing takes place every year to appeal to the gods for “tranquility” and “safety” for the village and fishermen. The ceremony involves, among other rituals, taking the gods “for a swim” to purify the harbor waters.
Rain had been lashing the coast for two weeks, but on the day of the celebration Feb. 9, a beautiful sun dispelled the clouds. “This is the divine manifestation of Sagely King Kai Zhang,” said Lin De-he, a temple representative who claimed this happens every year. “It was raining yesterday, and believe me, it will start again in the evening after the ceremony is completed,” he said.
The rituals started around eight o’clock in the morning with a Taoist priest offering sacrifices to evil spirits to drive them away from the village while asking for the temple gods’ assistance and protection.
Followed by hundreds of devotees, the priest walked out to the harbor where he blessed 15 boats that had been decorated for the occasion. The vessels then sailed into the open sea and came back three times, an action meant to solicit the gods for an abundant catch in the coming year. After the boats finally dropped anchor, the fishermen proceeded with the traditional distribution of fresh perch, dubbed “peace fish,” to villagers and visitors.
Lin explained that the Lantern Festival holiday is not only a day for family reunions, but also a day for sharing. This communal spirit is epitomized by the distribution of fish and the free bowls of glutinous rice dumplings local women prepare and serve on the square throughout the morning. “Offering rice dumplings is a symbol of our hospitality toward our sons, daughters and daughters-in-law, as well as visitors,” he said.
At around 10 o’clock came at last the much awaited cleansing ritual. Statues of deities were placed in eight palanquins, which were made of chairs affixed to two long bamboo poles. Groups of five young men, chosen by the temple, each paraded a palanquin around the temple square before dashing off the dock and swimming to another harbor some 150 meters away, encouraged by the excited cries of the crowd.
The water cleansing was followed by fire purification. Still dripping wet from their dip in the sea, the young devotees prepared to carry the palanquins over a bed of hot glowing coals. As soon as the Taoist priest had determined the auspicious angle from which to start the fire walking, the young men ran barefoot across the smoldering path amid bursting firecrackers, while villagers spread rice and salt over the embers to help cut down the heat. During the whole ritual, people were required to shout out auspicious words such as “fish coming in” and “people becoming rich.”
Though these days most of Yehliu’s fishermen have quit fishing and turned to land-based businesses, such as operating seafood restaurants, and have been replaced by Southeast Asian immigrant workers, the harbor cleansing tradition is still carried out, becoming one of Taipei County’s best known tourist attractions.
In the past, the temple and villagers organized and handled the whole event. However, in a bid to boost tourism in the area, the Taipei County government took over this year, adding related activities such as a public plunge into the harbor. Organizers estimated around 5,000 people, including journalists and scholars interested in local folklore, took part in this year’s celebration.
For folklore experts, the cleansing by water and fire, though related to the traditions brought about by the Han Chinese, contains many elements of indigenous culture. According to Wu Zhi-qing, an expert in folk culture, the area including Yehliu and the nearby townships of Wanli and Jinshan was once home to the Basay people, a subgroup of the Taiwanese Katagalan aboriginal people.
Wu explained that the Basay were the earliest people to settle in the area, where the land was fertile and the sea rich with fish. Some experts even argue that the name Yehliu is derived from the Pinpu language spoken by the Katagalan.
Although the Basay have gradually assimilated into Han society over the past two centuries, Wu suggested the area is also a great place for tourists interested in tracing vestiges of the aboriginal culture.
Write to June Tsai at june@mail.gio.gov.tw