Taiwan Today

Taiwan’s food service industry is responding to the growing popularity of vegetarianism by offering choices for all tastes.

For many would-be vegetarians, fear of being unable to find places to eat or suitable ingredients is often a bigger concern than the dietary change itself. But office worker Liu Pei-shan (劉佩珊‬), who switched to meat-free living three years ago, has found plenty to enjoy in the experience. “This lifestyle is easy and convenient in Taiwan, especially if you live in Taipei City,” she said. “I don’t have to sacrifice anything given the abundance of high-quality options.”

Liu is not alone in making the switch, as interest in vegetarianism is surging globally due to environmental, moral, religious and health-related reasons. The trend has moved to the forefront of public consciousness over the past decade, with U.K.-based weekly The Economist declaring 2019 as the “Year of the Vegan.”

According to a report released last year by Taipei-based think tank Chung-Hua Institution for Economic Research, about 3.3 million people in Taiwan—14 percent of the population—maintain a vegan or vegetarian diet. The country is consequently home to an array of plant-based gastronomy spanning the culinary spectrum from Chinese regional cuisines to international delicacies, making it one of the world’s best destinations for vegetarians.

Religious Roots

The prevalence of vegetarianism in Taiwan stems from Buddhism, which emphasizes compassion and equality while encouraging followers to refrain from eating meat out of respect for all living creatures. Other contributing factors include easy access to meat substitutes such as tofu and tempeh, as well as the tireless efforts of local nonprofits.

One such example is Taiwan Vegetarian Nutrition Society (TVNS), which works to promote healthy eating and plant-based meals through nutrition education. “People have misconceptions about vegetarian food being boring and lacking in protein,” TVNS Secretary-General Chiu Hsueh-ting (邱雪婷) said. “Our organization is trying to both educate consumers and promote the lifestyle by providing evidence-led dietary advice.”

Located in New Taipei City, TVNS counts academics, doctors and nutritionists among its members. The organization hosts frequent lectures, seminars and workshops in addition to conducting research and creating promotional materials.

A five-year study conducted by Chiu—who also serves as an assistant professor for the Department of Nutritional Science at Fu Jen Catholic University in New Taipei—in collaboration with Buddhist charity Hualien County-headquartered Tzu Chi Foundation in eastern Taiwan found vegetarian diets can reduce medical expenditure by 15 percent. “Such diets may have health benefits like lowering risk of cancer, diabetes and heart disease,” she said. “They’re also less environmentally damaging, helping mitigate climate change.”

TVNS’s promotional activities seek to educate the public on healthy lifestyle choices amid growing societal concern over animal welfare and the impact of the meat trade. Recent outbreaks of infectious diseases like COVID-19 and African swine fever have prompted more people to stop eating meat or reduce their meat intake, Chiu said.

Modern Cuisine

Thanks to the efforts of groups like TVNS, the burgeoning ranks of flexitarian, vegan and vegetarian customers comprise an attractive market opportunity for restauranteurs. Taking advantage of this is a challenge that chefs up and down the country are keen to take on as they transform common staples into meat-free variants.

Vegetarians in Taiwan can now find food suitable for any occasion at dining locations ranging from hole-in-the-wall eateries to lavish buffets and Michelin restaurants. Together, these establishments offer dishes in many different styles and at price points to suit all budgets.

One of the country’s best-known vegetarian restaurants is Taipei-based Serenity, which was awarded Bib Gourmand status in the Michelin Guide’s 2018 and 2019 editions for its high-quality offerings at reasonable prices. “It’s an honor to be recognized for two consecutive years,” owner Wu Hui-ping (吳慧萍) said. “This reflects our consistent quality.”

When it was established in 2005, Serenity was Taiwan’s first vegetarian restaurant dedicated to serving Sichuan-style cuisine. Its success led to opening of a second outlet in late 2018. Must-try menu items include bean sprouts in truffle pate, deep fried king oyster mushrooms, steamed stinky tofu and vegetarian gong bao chicken—a stir-fried dish made with peanuts, soya cubes and vegetables flavored with chili and Sichuan pepper.

Serenity offers dozens of options as appetizers, cold dishes, soups and entrees made with mushrooms, vegetables and varieties of bean curd. Dishes are seasonal as well, with new items featuring updated ingredients appearing throughout the year.

According to Wu, most of the restaurant’s customers do not consider themselves vegetarians, and many come from overseas. “Attracting meat eaters and altering their perceptions about this kind of food is particularly satisfying,” she said. “Our ability to provide diners with a new experience explains why we’ve become one of the must-visit establishments for anyone wanting to try Taiwan cuisine.”

Broad Appeal

The recent introduction of next-generation meat substitutes by leading U.S.-based producers Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods has also encouraged major international fast-food brands including Burger King, McDonald’s and MOS Burger to roll out plant-based options. Not to be outdone, Taipei-based Feastogether Corp., owner of six restaurant brands, opened Fruitful Food in 2013 to tap into the growing vegetarian market.

“We established Fruitful Food to offer consumers a vegetarian option that stands apart from traditional buffets filled with processed meat substitutes and too much fat, salt and sugar,” said Chiang Yen-jung (蔣艷蓉), vice president of public relations at Feastogether. The company’s goal is to popularize farm-to-table eating by buying directly from local farmers, a choice that promotes low-carbon diets, she added.

Such is the demand for vegetarian options, Fruitful Food has opened a further three outlets in northern and southern Taiwan over the last two years, with each seating around 300 people.

“Vegetarianism was once seen as something people only chose for religious reasons. But today, many consumers are making the switch to live a healthier and more eco-friendly lifestyle,” Chiang said. “There’s really been a surge in interest, especially among younger generations.”

As the numbers willing to try plant-based diets continue to rise, Taiwan’s restaurants must adapt and innovate to stay ahead of the curve. “The fact this country is already geared toward vegetarians, with many tried and trusted local specialties, makes our work much easier,” TVNS’s Chiu said. “We’re hopeful vegetarian diets will be widely adopted across all age groups in the near future.” 

Write to Kelly Her at kher@mofa.gov.tw