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Beef noodle soup brings taste of Taiwan to US

February 25, 2012
Hou Chun-sheng mesmerizes diners in northern California and Washington, D.C., with his award-winning beef noodle soup. (Photos courtesy of GIO)

The ROC government has been keen on promoting the country through its soft power, with the island’s delicacies being one of the most effective selling points for Taiwan as a tourist destination. A recent state-sponsored campaign in the United States promoting beef noodle soup, or “niu rou mian” in Mandarin, best illustrates the potential of gastrodiplomacy in marketing Taiwan to the rest of the world.

Initiated by Taipei Economic and Cultural Representative Office in San Francisco and supported by the Government Information Office, the campaign was headed by Hou Chun-sheng, winner of the 2011 Taipei International Beef Noodle Soup Festival in the spicy braised noodle category. The 49-year-old champion presented his award-winning course at six events held in San Francisco, Sacramento and Washington, D.C., between Feb. 8 and 16.

According to the GIO, the activities are part of ongoing government efforts to bring Taiwan’s delicacies to a wider global audience. “A significant portion of the 6 million visitors who came to Taiwan last year saw the island’s cuisine as a major draw,” GIO Minister Philip Yang said Feb. 3 at a pre-departure news conference. “We hope Hou’s tour will help bring more tourists to the country.”

Many Asian countries have successfully promoted their respective noodle dishes around the globe, such as pho from Vietnam and ramen from Japan, Yang said. “We believe beef noodle soup has the same potential to become Taiwan’s national cuisine, as it best epitomizes Taiwan’s exciting, inviting and innovative food culture.”

Created by mainland Chinese immigrants to Taiwan after the 1949 civil war and now embraced as one of the country’s most popular treats, beef noodle soup is a perfect example of the island’s ethnic harmony, according to Manfred Peng, director of TECRO SF’s press division.

“Noodles are becoming increasingly popular in the U.S., especially in the Bay Area where a pretty high percentage of residents are ethnic Asians,” he pointed out. “The combination of the tasty beef course, the historical context of its origin and Hou’s championship is a recipe for success.”

“Unlike some Taiwanese delicacies that require sophisticated culinary skills, beef noodle soup is fairly easy to prepare and the ingredients are readily available. This accessibility greatly increases the success rate for people who want to give it a try themselves,” Peng added.

“It is my dream to open a beef noodle soup shop after retirement,” said Hou, currently the executive chef of Room 18, a popular night club in Taipei. “Before taking part in the contest, I spent a couple of years researching beef noodle soup and trying to develop my own recipe.” He won the competition in his first attempt, and with it the chance to promote one of Taiwan’s signature dishes and showcase his culinary mastery in the U.S.

beef noodle 1Hou’s trademark beef course is the focus of a Feb. 8 dinner party at L’Olivier in San Francisco.

Hou made his first stop Feb. 8 at Google Inc.’s Mountain View headquarters, where the guest chef served the meal to 800 employees, up from the 400 servings he had originally planned.

The event had generated a lot of interest within the company ever since the news broke in early February, Peng said. “As a matter of fact, while the serving time was scheduled for noon, people started lining up at the company’s Cafe Jia as early as 10:30 in the morning.” At last count, around 1,200 Google employees showed up at the restaurant.

Later the same day, the visiting chef satisfied the taste buds of participants in a sell-out dinner party at L’Olivier restaurant in San Francisco. Co-sponsored by TECRO and the Asia Society Northern California, the activity attracted more than 120 diners and distinguished guests, including City Supervisors David Chu and Eric Mar, TECRO SF Director-General Jack Chiang and Narsai David, food and wine editor of the city’s KCBS Radio.

“Beef noodle soup is a very special aspect of the culture of the island of Taiwan,” said Chu, whose parents emigrated from Taiwan to the U.S. “I wanted to come and help celebrate this wonderful cuisine and be a part of this fantastic community.”

Chiang saw the campaign as instrumental in cementing trade and cultural ties between the two nations. “Taiwan is the ninth largest trading partner of the U.S. and the sixth largest buyer of its agricultural products. By pitching this dish at home and in the U.S., we hope to foster the American people’s understanding of Taiwan’s gourmet culture and promote America’s agricultural products in Taiwan.”

At a Feb. 10 event hosted by State Assemblymember Richard Pan and State Senator Leland Yee in Sacramento, Hou gave a demonstration to more than 200 invited guests at the Italian restaurant Spataro on how to prepare his winning dish. Earlier the same day in the state Assembly and Senate, Pan and Yee presented a Resolution to Hou and Chiang for their efforts in advancing exchanges between the people of Taiwan and California.

beef noodle 3During a Feb. 16 dinner banquet held at the Twin Oak Manor in Washington, D.C., Ambassador Jason C. Yuan introduces Taiwan’s food culture to invited guests while commenting on the development of Taiwan’s democracy.

“As we celebrate the Year of the Dragon, it is great for all Californians to see and understand the connection our state has with Asia, including the various ingredients of Chef Hou’s famous beef noodle soup,” Yee said. “Our economies and culture are inextricably linked through traditions, agriculture and many commodities.”

After another cooking session at kitchenware store Williams-Sonoma in downtown San Francisco, Hou treated more guests to his special noodles in Washington, D.C., Feb. 15, during a reception at the Smithsonian’s Freer Gallery, followed by a free screening of director Ang Lee’s film “Eat, Drink, Man, Woman.”

“It was quite a scene,” Hou said. “I was surprised to learn that more than 3,200 people stormed the facility to sample the noodles, literally turning the place into a Taiwanese night market. I am really honored to have the chance to introduce this wonderful dish to the people of America.”

The chef wrapped up his U.S. tour Feb. 16 with a dinner banquet held at the Twin Oak Manor in the capital city. Hosted by ROC Representative to the U.S. Jason C. Yuan, the feast was attended by over 100 dignitaries and reporters from The Washington Post and National Geographic, among others.

“Food is among the strongest bonds between cultures, and Hou’s tour is the best evidence as it is the most successful event organized by TECRO in the past three years,” Peng summarized. With so many Taiwanese cuisines and snacks to choose from, there is no doubt that more state-sponsored food campaigns will be on the menu soon. (HZW)

Write to Meg Chang at meg.chang@mail.gio.gov.tw

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