Taiwan Today

Taiwan is a land of interesting temples and shrines. Buddhist places of worship total 1,850 and Taoist 1,800. Followers of Buddha are estimated at six to eight million. The Taoist association has a membership of only 21,000 but the number of adherents is actually much larger. This is because of prevailing religious dualism. Many people worship at both Buddhist and Taoist temples but classify themselves as Buddhists. Except for Christians and Moslems, the Chinese of Taiwan tend to be polytheistic. They pray and make offerings to a wide assortment of deities, including Ma Tsu (Lady Guardian of the Sea), the Earth God, and a large number of City gods. Confucius is not a god and Confucianism is not a religion, but both temples and shrines are dedicated to China’s great teacher-philosopher. The temple above is a new one near Tamsui on the northern tip of Taiwan. Its deity is Kuan Yu, China’s most honored god of War.

Thousand-Clan Shrines (top) are unique to Taiwan and are found everywhere on the island, especially in the countryside. They are dedicated to people who died without descendants and in a sense reflect a sentiment similar to that which has led to tombs honoring unknown soldiers. Such shrines originally were built by immigrants who came to Taiwan without families some 300 years ago. By Chinese custom, to die without descendants is one of the worst fates that can befall a man or woman. Images of deities are usually carved from wood (center). Despite their simple tools, the craftsmen turn out fine work. Some carvings may be considered minor works of art. Fortune tellers, often blind (bottom), like to ply their trade at temples and shrines.

The ornate edifice on this page is the Chihnan Temple, largest Taoist place of worship in Taiwan. It is dedicated to Lu Tung-pin, the incarnation of a Taoist deity. Pilgrims who want to know the future may apply for an overnight stay. After a meatless supper and vesper service, they are supposed to dream of whatever the future holds in store. In Western judgment, Taoism might well be regarded as the typical religion of the Orient — mysterious, exotic, unknowable. Its founder was Lao Tze, the Old Master, a contemporary of Confucius, who left a book that gives to Tao a mysticism not unlike Christianity. But Tao is also inaction; it does nothing so that all may be done in conformity.

These are interior views of the Kuan Yu Temple introduced on the title page. Kuan Yu was a hero of the Chinese period of Three Kingdoms from 222 to 265 A.D. He is respected for both loyalty and bravery in battle. His popularity as a war god is connected with Confucianism rather than aggressiveness. Taiwan has 140 temples and shrines dedicated to Kuan Yu. This does not reflect any special belligerence. Lesser deities are prayed to for all manner of things, and not only for war or some other specialty. Christians as well as Moslems may object to China’s polytheism. But it is really not idolatry.

The palace-style Kuan Yu Temple near Tamsui (top) offers an interesting vista of typical Chinese roof lines and pillars that have an almost Byzantine flavor. An image of Kuan Yu is seen (bottom) flanked by his chief aides. The war god’s face is painted red, a common Chinese symbolizing of bravery which also can be found in the painted faces of Chinese opera. Temples and shrines to minor deities usually are staffed by only about 2,300 monks and nuns to man the more than 1,800 places of worship. The Taoists have still fewer. Many shrines are for worship only and have no formal services.

The Earth God has his roadside shrines (top) and statues (bottom) that guard against evil spirits at cemeteries. Shrines are open the year around and have neither priests nor nuns. Those who come to burn joss sticks and pray are mostly women. Many of the prayers are for the dead, but minor gods also may be asked to help with marriages, children, money matters, and most of the other problems of humankind. The City Gods have birthday celebrations that take on the form of feast days. The residents invite their neighbors, friends from afar, and even passersby to join in food and drink so as to wish their deity many happy returns of the day.

Some 350 temples are dedicated to the Goddess of Mercy (Avalokitesvera Bodhisaffva), one of the principal Buddhist deities. Lungshan Temple in Taipei is one of the largest and most accessible of these temples and attracts many foreign visitors. Taiwan’s oldest temples go back to the 17th century, but because these structures are made of wood and subject to fire, most have been rebuilt at least once. The birthday of the Goddess of Mercy falls on the 19th day of the second moon, when rice cakes, fruit, sweets, and other nonfat foods are offered (bottom). Burning of incense is common at any time.

Of 330 temples to Ma Tsu (Lady Guardian of the Sea), the largest is located at Peikang in the south. Tens of thousands of pilgrims crowd into the town to celebrate her birthday on the 23rd day of the third moon. Many historical plays are presented (top). Ma Tsu is worshiped by fishermen and also by the rank and file of islanders, because their ancestors crossed the Taiwan Straits. Women supplicants at temples outnumber men by perhaps 10 to 1 (bottom). Nowadays the offerings include bread and Western-style canned drinks.