Mazu, also known as the goddess of the sea or the queen of heaven, is the most revered deity in Taiwan. It is estimated that there are more than 10 million Mazu worshippers in the nation as well as around 2,300 temples dedicated to the goddess.
The Mazu pilgrimage, which takes place during the third lunar month, is Taiwan’s largest religious activity. Pilgrims participate in the festival to celebrate the deity’s birthday. They also bring the Mazu goddess from their local temples with them on their journey in order to perform an important ceremony, one that binds each Mazu temple to all of the others.
This linking of temples is done through the ritual of fenxiang, “dividing the incense smoke,” or fenling, “dividing the spirit.” According to tradition, if a new representation of Mazu is to become more than simply a carved piece of wood, it must acquire power from older, established Mazu deities. This is done by passing the new depiction through incense smoke from an older Mazu’s censer. Through the ritual, the new representation of the deity is granted the identity and power of the goddess. However, since Mazu’s power weakens over time, she must return periodically to the temple where she gained her identity to recharge.
Taiwan Review joined pilgrims from Shuntian Temple in New Taipei City’s Banqiao District as they journeyed to Bengang Gangkou Temple in southern Taiwan’s Chiayi County to regenerate their Mazu.
Write to Jim Hwang at cyhuang03@mofa.gov.tw