Since the tropic of Capricorn runs through the southern part of the island, the climate in all four seasons is too mild for snow except in the lofty mountains. Average temperatures on Mt. Hohuan are 14°C in summer, 5°C in winter, 10 to 15 degrees lower than at sea level. On Christmas Eve every year, the snows, like migratory birds, visit the mountain on time, and linger on until next spring.
When snow covers the entire mountain-from peak to valley-the scenery resembles that of northern China. During the winter season, visitors make the long, arduous journey to the mountain just to enjoy the beauty of snow, or to indulge in a variety of winter sports, including skiing, or just to play-snowballing and fashioning snowmen.
Because of its temperature levels, the mountain is also an ideal summer resort. When the lowlands are steaming hot, jade green mountain slopes, immensely blue skies, and cottony clouds are a tourist's delight, not to mention the fresh air and the fragrance of wilderness.
Attracted by the mountain's special terrain and climate, the China Youth Corps sponsors such activities as mountain climbing or skiing for young people. The mountain especially bustles with activity in winter, when youths in colorful ski jackets decorate its world of silver white.
Joining members of the Republic of China National Ski Association on a visit to the mountain, we were fully armed with hooded goosedown jacket, sun glasses, woolen gloves, wool puttees, a pair of lug-soled boots, and a knapsack fully packed with daily necessities and camera equipment.
We got up at 6 a.m., and after a three-hour drive from Fengyuan, arrived at Lishan at 9 a.m. Progress was smooth until we arrived at Green Bay, where our chainless truck bogged down in the middle of the frozen road, a dozen kilometers from Mt. Hohuan. The heavy photographic equipment and bitter cold intimidated us against any desire to make the rest of the journey on foot.
Ironically, taxies with chained tires are available to transport visitors; hiring one, we plunged ahead at a snail's pace, only to be forced to abandon the cab and hike the rest of the distance when the road disappeared under deep snow. People living near the mountain say that this year's snows are the heaviest in live years. Even the small hills near the Techi Reservoir arc capped with snow. The snow was so wet and heavy, that electric wires were broken down. With the power failure, the pumps were unable to supply water to the mountain facilities from the valley below.
Airborne—A delight for the accomplished skier
During our three-day stay on the mountain, we had to cook with ice on a kerosene stove. We used snowflakes to brush our teeth and wash our faces. One of our photographers contracted mountain sickness. We had to dig snow and boil it to provide drinking water for him.
Mt. Hohuan was first opened for tourism in 1966, when the Taiwan Forestry Bureau chipped in more than NT$3 million (US$75,000) to construct the Snow Pine Hostel to provide room and board for tourists. The National Ski Association later rented the two-story building to serve as a base for ski training. A ski run was opened to the east of the hostel. A cable lift now climbs a height of 150 meters; other facilities were also provided for trainees. However, the growing number of skiers could not be accommodated by the Snow Pine Hostel, and the Forestry Bureau decided to build dorms to serve members of the Ski Association. Meanwhile, to accommodate more tourists, the China Youth Corps built the Hohuan Hostel, a serve-yourself inn for students.
During our stay on the mountain, the cable lift had broken down. Ski meisters and green hands alike had to spend 15 minutes climbing the 150-meter slope, just to slide down in 15 seconds. Most of the novices, not knowing how to stop or change directions, would fall on their backs to break their speed. When one of them crashed into one of our colleagues, we broke into cold sweat. He turned a somersault and lay flat for several minutes before we finally got him up.
The training courses begin with instruction for students on how to properly put on their ski boots, to sledge, and how to control the sticks. Fundamental training in balance and other minimum necessities is stressed. On the eve of "commencement" day, all the trainees are tested to see how many turns they can make. Those who pass are awarded certificates of honor.
On the eve of "commencement" day, all the trainees are tested to see how many turns they can make
Some hesitant tourists decided to construct makeshift ski sleds, using cartons and plastic wrappings. "At least it's safer," said one tourist. I decided to try one from the waist line of the slope. The speed was so high that everything seemed to fly past me before I finally fell over sidewise, with the sleigh firmly planted in the snow.
A 400-meter ski path connecting Wulin-not far distant from Mt. Hohuan-with the valley floor, serves as a military winter-training facility. The troops undergo training here in mountain climbing and combat techniques under snow conditions. The trail leading from Mt. Hohuan to Kunyang is specifically restricted as a snow appreciation trail. No vehicles are allowed to enter.
Hohuan Shan is a mountain for all seasons. Its extensive, majestic ranges are ideal places for youth to meet physical challenges, and thus to prepare themselves for later life.