Taiwan Today

The remote indigenous village of Smangus strikes a balance between development and sustainability.

At age 17, Koyung Yupas left his hometown of Smangus, an indigenous Atayal community nestled deep in the mountains of northern Taiwan’s Hsinchu County, to pursue educational and employment opportunities. After a decade and a half spent studying and working odd jobs, he was inspired to return by the once-sleepy farming village’s dramatic transformation into a prosperous commune and tourist destination. “Since coming home, I’ve got a stable income, but more significantly a deep sense of belonging,” he said.

The metamorphosis of Smangus began in 1991 when residents discovered a group of majestic red cypress trees 4.5 kilometers from the village, potentially a big visitor draw. Four years later, the local government completed the final stretch of road to the remote community, which sits at an elevation of 1,500 meters and was previously among the most inaccessible in Taiwan. As word got out, tourism numbers grew, bringing substantial economic benefits.

According to village head Masay Sulung, while the road brought money, it also led to fierce competition among villagers. The visitor influx also raised concerns about outside businesses buying up land and spurring overdevelopment. “The community had been quite united, but capitalism drove wedges between residents,” he said. “We had to figure out a way of retrieving our solidarity and promoting sustainable growth.”

In the late 1990s, some residents, under the direction of then village chief Icyeh Sulung, began exploring the idea of creating a commune. They launched a community-managed, profit-sharing tourist restaurant in 2001, before establishing a similar model for accommodation the following year. A 2003 visit to Israel’s kibbutzim, collective communities where workers share duties and income, further boosted confidence in the approach. “We were truly inspired by these well-run sites with clear divisions of labor,” said Masay, who joined the trip sponsored by the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan, long a prominent part of village life.

Land Consolidation

The Atayal community took a major stride toward creating a commune in 2004 when villagers reached a consensus on pooling land resources. “That was a critical breakthrough as the plots owned by different households varied significantly in size and value,” said Lahuy Icyeh, secretary of the tribal council.

This move facilitated a robust, integrated approach to tourism development and prevented any land grabs by external forces. “Sharing comes naturally to aboriginal peoples,” Lahuy said. “In the past, we divided out meat from hunted boar and have taken this tradition to new heights by consolidating land ownership.”

In the years since, the commune has expanded to oversee matters ranging from agriculture and ecological resources to personnel affairs and tourism. Members are assigned jobs based on skills and interests. Everyone receives the same income as well as a variety of benefits in areas like health care. “The village education fund, for instance, covers all expenses from kindergarten to graduate school,” Lahuy said. “In our commune, no one is left behind.” The council secretary noted that this ethos would not have emerged without the initially divisive invasion of capitalism.

According to resident Atay Kumay, a chef in the tourist restaurant, the tribe’s religious traditions laid the foundations for the commune. “In adopting this concept, everyone had to learn how to be less self-centered, how to strive for the common good and promote the long-term well-being of our people.”

Community Growth

Tourism, which accounts for about 80 percent of commune revenues, has led to significant infrastructure improvements. It also helped reverse the trend of population decline as natives committed to futures in the community and former residents returned. The number of households in Smangus stands at 35, up from eight in the mid-1990s, with about 80 percent of the 166 locals participating in the commune.

“With the local economy going from strength to strength and the fruits shared out equitably, people are more willing to have children,” Lahuy said. The number of students at the village’s sole educational institution—a branch of Hsin Kwang Elementary School based in another Atayal tribal community in Hsinchu—has increased from 10 in 2004 to 24 today.

The success of the tourism economy saw monthly incomes for commune members double to NT$20,000 (US$667) over the same period. Benefits have risen accordingly as well. Households receive a subsidy of NT$4,000 (US$133) per month for each child under the age of 2, up from NT$1,000 (US$33) when the perk was established in 2007. There are also incentives to attract educators to the elementary school, such as free accommodation in a guesthouse.

Current teacher Ciwas Buya hails from Bailan, an Atayal village located several hours away by car. “The atmosphere in Smangus was a big draw for me,” she said. “Villagers identify with Atayal culture and in comparison with my hometown, are much more likely to communicate in our native language.”

Resource Management

With everyone receiving an equal share of revenues, the tribal council has introduced measures to ensure optimal job performance. For instance, people who drink at work lose half their year-end bonus, which reached NT$80,000 (US$2,667) in 2017, for first-time violators, with repeat offenders forfeiting more.

“Similarly, we review our young people’s academic performance, including those studying outside the community,” said Lahuy, who became the first Smangus native to earn a master’s degree in 2008 and oversees educational affairs for the tribal council. “If their grades are disappointing, we might decide to halt their subsidies.”

The issue of greatest concern to tribal leaders is sustainable development. Male members of the community are required to take turns patrolling surrounding mountainous areas to deter illegal logging by outsiders. These efforts are conducted in coordination with law enforcement authorities.

“We’re also committed to afforestation,” Masay said, pointing to a hillside near the entrance to the village. “That area was covered with bamboo plants, but they were wiped out in a fire in October 2017. We planted maple trees in February because they’re better for soil conservation.”

Quality Experiences

Smangus is also addressing environmental issues caused by the tourism boom. Residents previously sought to attract as many visitors as possible, with the daily total reaching a high of 450 in 2010. The commune has since set a cap of 240 per day as it moves toward offering more value-added experiences. “This decrease hasn’t put a dent in overall revenues owing to the larger fees,” he said. “It actually has had a positive impact on the environment through such measures as reducing the amount of waste.”

Amin Yosyo, director-general of the tribal council, hopes Smangus can inspire other indigenous communities to adopt collective, sustainable practices. While elders have received many aboriginal delegations from across Taiwan, it remains the only commune among the nation’s tribal villages. “At the very least, we’ve set a positive example, and we’re always ready to share our experiences,” he said.

When Masay surveys the community today and reflects on all that has been achieved, he often thinks of his Atayal ancestors and the hardships they endured migrating across northern and central Taiwan. “They braved challenging mountainous terrain barefoot to find a future for their offspring,” he said. “How can we fail them now by falling apart?”

According to the village chief, as minority groups, indigenous peoples need to stick together. “In this respect, Smangus is a story worth sharing.”

Write to Oscar Chung at mhchung@mofa.gov.tw